Wednesday, June 10, 2026

Hand tools + power tools = your best work yet

Hybrid Woodworking by Marc Spagnuolo

Hybrid Woodworking

A faster route to handcrafted results.

by Marc Spagnuolo

Get Your Copy →

For years, I’ve relied on a simple philosophy in my shop: use machines for the work they’re best at and hand tools where they make the biggest difference. That’s what Hybrid Woodworking is all about.

In this book, I’ll show you how to combine the efficiency of power tools with the precision and satisfaction of hand tools, so you can build better projects without spending unnecessary time at the bench.
Inside Hybrid Woodworking — Techniques of the Hybrid Woodworker

A look inside the book

What’s Inside

✅  Which machines and power tools are best for the grunt work of furniture making
✅  Which hand tools are essential for fine-tuning
✅  Techniques for working flawlessly and efficiently with every tool in your shop
✅  The hybrid milling system — from rough lumber to perfectly flat, square stock
✅  Real-world projects that put the hybrid approach into practice
Inside Hybrid Woodworking — Projects

✍  Every copy is personally signed by Marc – something you won’t get if you buy the book on Amazon.

📕

Signed Paperback

$29

Autographed and shipped
to your door.

📱

Digital (PDF)

$25

Instant download.
Read anywhere, anytime.

Free With Every Copy

🎁 3 Exclusive Bonuses

🎬 Top 5 Planes for the Hybrid Woodworker

A focused video covering the hand planes I consider most useful in a hybrid shop.

🎓 Hybrid Woodworking Seminar

A special presentation that expands on the concepts in the book and takes the hybrid approach even further.

📚 Bonus Resources

Additional articles and videos to support your learning and help you build with confidence.

Access your bonuses immediately after purchase – no waiting for shipping!

Whether you grab the signed paperback or the digital version, the bonuses are included with both.

Get Your Copy →

Making beautiful furniture can be immensely gratifying. By adopting the hybrid system, you can get to that satisfying end result with less effort, while enjoying every step along the way.

I hope you’ll check it out. And if you have any questions, just leave a comment. I’d love to hear from you.

Happy woodworking!

Marc Spagnuolo
The Wood Whisperer

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Monday, June 8, 2026

The Kreg Edge is not a Domino Killer, and that’s the point!

Kreg recently announced the new Kreg Edge Loose Tenon Joiner, and I had a chance to spend some hands-on time with it at Woodcraft’s vendor sales conference. While this isn’t a full review, since I only had about 20 minutes with a pre-production unit, I’ve used the Festool Domino for nearly 20 years, so it didn’t take long to get a feel for what Kreg is trying to do here.

The Edge is clearly aimed at the same type of joinery as the Domino. The cutter rotates and oscillates to create a mortise, and it uses loose tenons to create strong, hidden joinery. It will be available as a cordless 20V tool, with 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm cutter and tenon compatibility. Kreg is listing the Edge at $499 for the kit and $449 for the bare tool, which puts it in a completely different price category than the Domino.

So is it a Domino killer? No, and I don’t think Kreg is trying to make it one. If you already own a Domino, I don’t see this as a reason to sell it or switch platforms. But for the woodworker who has always wanted fast loose tenon joinery and couldn’t justify the Domino price tag, this could be a very compelling option.

Kreg did add a few thoughtful changes. The fence is a little wider, which should give users more support. There are dust ejection ports underneath, allowing the tool to be used without dust collection, something Kreg knows many of their customers may appreciate. The micro-adjustable fence height is probably my favorite feature, because that’s something I’ve wished my Domino had for years. The Edge also includes onboard wrench storage, a stability base, and a narrow stock guide with a center-finding feature.

In use, the plunge felt smooth, but slower than my corded Domino. That makes sense given that the Edge is cordless and runs at a lower RPM. The tenon fit was acceptable, though a little looser than I typically get with my Domino. But the testing setup wasn’t ideal, the bench was too high, and with a tool like this, body position and technique matter a lot. I’ll reserve final judgment until I can test one properly in my own shop.

My early conclusion is that Kreg seems to have accomplished its goal. This probably won’t change the game for current Domino owners, but it could open the door for a lot more woodworkers to use fast, all-wood loose tenon joinery at a much lower price.

Learn more about the Kreg Edge here!

Check out the latest episode of Wood Talk where we discuss the Kreg Edge further.

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Friday, May 15, 2026

The Best Finish for a Workbench? Stop Overthinking It

Handy Links

Choosing a finish for a workbench can get complicated. Some people spend days researching the best finish for a workbench, while others think that’s ridiculous because it’s just a workbench. I understand both sides.

A workbench is a tool. It’s going to get scratched, dented, stained, glued, scraped, sanded, and abused. Damage isn’t a question of “if,” it’s a question of “when.” So stressing too much over the perfect finish probably isn’t the best use of your shop time.

But if you spent weeks building a beautiful hardwood bench, it makes sense to give the finish at least a little thought. You don’t necessarily want to grab the first mystery can from the back of the cabinet and hope for the best. So let’s look at the most common workbench finish options, what they do well, where they fall short, and which one I’d use today.

Do You Even Need a Finish?

Maybe not. If your bench is made from decent material, like a good quality hardwood, it’s already pretty durable. A workbench doesn’t need to look like a dining table. It needs to hold your work and survive shop abuse. If stains, dents, glue spots, and general wear don’t bother you, leaving the bench unfinished is a completely valid option.

No Finish Pros

  • Zero cost: Free is tough to beat.
  • Zero effort: If you hate finishing, this is the easiest option.
  • Maximum grip: Raw wood usually has a naturally grippy surface, which helps keep workpieces from sliding around.
  • Easy maintenance: When the top needs flattening, just plane or sand it and get back to work.

No Finish Cons

  • Staining: Raw wood absorbs spills, finish, glue, and mystery shop liquids very easily.
  • Glue bonds aggressively: Dried glue can pull wood fibers with it when scraped off.
  • More moisture exposure: A finish can help slow moisture exchange, while raw wood reacts more directly to humidity changes.
  • It won’t look nice for long: Depending on your personality, this is either a problem or a badge of honor.

What Makes a Good Workbench Finish?

A workbench finish has a different job than a furniture finish. On a dining table, you might prioritize beauty, water resistance, and easy cleaning. On a workbench, the priorities shift. A good workbench finish should:

  • Add some protection from stains, glue, and spills
  • Keep the surface from getting too slippery
  • Be easy to repair
  • Be practical to apply
  • Not make you afraid to use the bench

The best finish for a workbench is not always the most protective finish. Sometimes the most protective finish creates a surface that’s too slick or too annoying to repair.

Drying Oils

Drying oils include things like tung oil, walnut oil, and boiled linseed oil. Unlike mineral oil, these finishes actually cure, though they can take a while. Oils don’t build much of a film, so they leave the wood feeling very natural. A couple coats provide some protection, but not nearly as much as a heavier film finish.

Oil Pros

  • Easy application: Wipe it on, let it soak in, and wipe off the excess.
  • Natural feel: Oils keep the surface close to raw wood and don’t make it overly slick.
  • Easy to repair: Sand, scrape, or plane the damaged area and reapply.
  • Low cost: Boiled linseed oil is inexpensive and widely available.

Oil Cons

  • Long cure time: Many oils dry to the touch fairly quickly but can take weeks or months to fully cure.
  • Limited protection per coat: One coat helps, but multiple coats are better.
  • Easy to mess up: Too much oil, poor wiping, or recoating too soon can leave a sticky, gummy surface.

Quick Tip

If you use oil, consider a polymerized version. These are heat treated and usually cure faster. Also, always handle oily rags safely. Lay them flat to dry or follow the manufacturer’s instructions, because oily rags can be a fire hazard.

Hardwax Oils

Hardwax oils have become popular for furniture, and they’re now a real contender for workbenches too. They offer a natural look and feel, but with better protection than a basic oil. For a long time, the price made them hard to recommend for shop furniture. But with more options on the market, including products like Natura OneCoat, they’re becoming more practical.

Hardwax Oil Pros

  • Easy application: Wipe on sparingly, work it in, and buff off the excess.
  • Low build: The surface still feels natural and not overly slick.
  • Better protection than oil: You get solid protection without needing a bunch of coats.
  • Faster cure: Two component hardwax oils usually cure faster than traditional oils.
  • Easy spot repair: Damaged areas can usually be cleaned up and refinished without much drama.

Hardwax Oil Cons

  • More expensive: Usually pricier than basic oil or varnish.
  • Formulas vary: Some contain solvents, activators, or other ingredients worth paying attention to.
  • Limited pot life: Two part systems need to be mixed carefully, and once mixed, the clock is ticking.

Oil Based Varnish or Polyurethane

Oil based varnish, including polyurethane, is one of the most protective options. It builds a film on top of the wood, and after several coats, the surface is well sealed. That protection can be useful, but for a workbench it comes with some tradeoffs.

Oil Based Varnish Pros

  • Strong protection: A few coats create a durable film.
  • Good protection per coat: It builds quickly, especially when brushed on full strength.
  • Affordable and available: You can find it at almost any hardware store.
  • Reasonable dry time: Many products dry to the touch within a day, though full cure takes longer.

Oil Based Varnish Cons

  • Can be slick: A slippery workbench is not ideal.
  • Hard to spot repair: Touchups often look obvious unless you refinish a larger area.
  • Film damage looks bad: Scratches, scuffs, chips, and white marks can stand out quickly.
  • Odor and VOCs: Oil based finishes can be stinky and require good ventilation.

Quick Tip

If you want some varnish protection without a thick plastic feel, dilute the varnish or use a wipe on version. Apply one or two light coats and wipe off most of the excess. This gives some protection while keeping the surface closer to the wood.

Danish Oil

Danish oil is typically a mix of oil, varnish, and thinner. It gives you some of the easy application and natural look of oil, plus a bit more protection from the varnish. This has been my go to workbench finish for years. A couple coats are usually enough to add protection without making the bench feel too slick.

Danish Oil Pros

  • Better protection than straight oil: The varnish content gives it a boost.
  • Easy wipe on application: Apply it, let it soak in, and wipe off the excess.
  • Relatively inexpensive: Usually affordable and easy to find.
  • Easy to spot repair: As long as you don’t build up too many coats.
  • Pleasant low build surface: One or two coats still feels close to the wood.

Danish Oil Cons

  • Slower cure: The oil content means it can take longer to fully cure.
  • Odor and VOCs: The thinner makes it pretty smelly.
  • Can get slick with too many coats: For a workbench, one or two coats is usually enough.

Quick Tip

You can make your own version with a simple 1:1:1 mix of oil, varnish, and mineral spirits. From there, you can adjust the formula depending on how much protection, build, or ease of application you want.

Water Based Finishes

Water based finishes cover a lot of territory, but for workbench purposes, many of them share the same basic traits. They usually build a film, they can be difficult to spot repair, and they contain water, which can raise the grain.

That raised grain might actually be useful on a bench. A little extra texture could add grip. I haven’t personally used water based finishes on my workbench for this reason, but I can see why someone might make that argument.

Water Based Finish Pros

  • Lower odor: Usually much less offensive than oil based finishes.
  • Water cleanup: Soap and water cleanup is always nice.
  • Fast dry time: Many water based finishes dry to the touch quickly.
  • Potential added grip: Raised grain may help keep workpieces from sliding, though this depends on the product and application.

Water Based Finish Cons

  • More work to apply: Many are brushed, rolled, or sprayed rather than simply wiped on.
  • Hard to spot repair: Like other film finishes, repairs can be obvious.
  • Can still become slick: A few coats can create a smooth film surface.
  • Raised grain can be annoying: Extra texture might be good for grip, but not everyone will like the feel.

So, What Finish Am I Using?

For my own bench refresh, I’m using a hardwax oil, specifically Natura OneCoat. The top had some stains, glue spots, and scratches, but nothing too terrible. After sanding the surface to clean it up, the hardwax oil gives me the balance I’m looking for.

For me, it checks the most important boxes:

  • Easy to apply
  • Decent protection
  • Low build
  • Natural feel
  • Not too slippery
  • Easy to repair later

That doesn’t mean hardwax oil is the perfect finish for every workbench. It just means it’s the right choice for my bench right now.

Final Recommendation

There is no single perfect workbench finish. Here’s the simple breakdown:

  • No finish: Best for maximum grip, zero cost, and easy flattening.
  • Drying oil: Best for a simple, natural, low cost finish.
  • Hardwax oil: Best balance of protection, natural feel, and easy repair.
  • Oil based varnish or poly: Best protection, but more slick and harder to repair.
  • Danish oil: Great middle ground with easy application and decent protection.
  • Water based finish: Lower odor and fast drying, but still has film finish drawbacks.

My current favorite is hardwax oil. But the bigger point is this, don’t let the finish decision keep you from using the bench. When people ask me for the best finish for a workbench, my answer today is hardwax oil, but only because it fits the way I use my bench.

Pick something reasonable, apply it properly, and get back to woodworking.

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Friday, May 1, 2026

Why Exterior Finishes FAIL | Ask TWW

Welcome back to Ask TWW, where you ask the questions and I do my best to answer without wandering too far into the weeds. Today we’re talking about lubricating drill bits, shop pencils, exterior finishes in hot and humid climates, and the age-old battle of square dogs vs round dogs.

Relevant Links

@ericsturgulewski2399 – I noticed you sprayed something on a Forstner bit in a recent video. I’ve never really seen anyone use lubricant when drilling wood before. Does it leave any kind of stain?

That was a dry lubricant, specifically BladeCote. And no, it’s not the same thing as spraying oily lube all over your woodworking tools. Please don’t do that unless your goal is to make finishing even more complicated than it already is. Dry lube goes on wet, but the carrier flashes off quickly and leaves behind a thin lubricating film. That film helps reduce friction, which means less heat, less burning, and less premature dulling of the bit or blade.

This is especially helpful with something like a Forstner bit in a deep hole. Those bits can heat up quickly, and if the chips don’t clear well, things can get ugly fast. A little dry lube, plus clearing the chips as you go, can make a big difference.

The key is using a lubricant that’s actually meant for woodworking tools. Wet lubricants can soak into the wood, stain the surface, gum up the dust, and create a nasty paste that makes the problem worse. A good dry lube won’t do that. I use it on drill bits, router bits, table saw blades, bandsaw blades, and pretty much anything in the shop that cuts and gets hot.

@RidgidRon – Do you have a favorite between a regular pencil, carpenter pencil, and marking knife?

It depends on the job. I know, very exciting answer. But in the shop, marking tools usually fall into three categories, rough, medium, and fine.

For rough marking, I like Pica pencils. The lead is thick, durable, and easy to see. I keep one with regular lead and one with white lead for darker woods. Carpenter pencils live in this same rough category. They’re fine for construction and general carpentry, but for furniture work and joinery layout, they’re a little like using a sledgehammer to adjust a hinge.

For everyday layout, I like a .7mm mechanical pencil. It’s precise enough for most work, sturdy enough that the lead doesn’t snap every three seconds, and it works nicely with measuring tools that have marking holes.

For finer work, I’ll use a .5mm mechanical pencil or a marking knife. A .5mm pencil gives a very fine line, but the lead is more fragile, so don’t write with the enthusiasm of a toddler holding a crayon.

A marking knife is the precision king. It gives you a super fine line, severs the wood fibers, and can help guide a saw or chisel. But it’s not forgiving. You can’t erase a knife line, and depending on your lighting and eyesight, it can be harder to see.

So the short version is this, Pica pencil for rough work, .7mm mechanical pencil for general layout, and .5mm pencil or marking knife when precision really matters.

@teresasaint7220 – How do you recommend finishing a wood piece that will be outside in a sunny and soupy humid climate?

First of all, I love the word soupy. Apparently not everyone uses it, which is both surprising and mildly disappointing.

For outdoor furniture, the big enemy isn’t just rain or humidity. It’s the sun. UV exposure breaks finishes down, and once the finish starts to fail, moisture gets in and the whole thing starts moving downhill.

That means the real question isn’t, “What finish will last forever?” because that finish doesn’t exist. The better question is, “What finish am I actually willing to maintain?”

Film finishes, like varnish, can look great and offer excellent protection, especially early on. But when they fail, they tend to fail dramatically. Cracking, peeling, flaking, the whole greatest hits album. And once you miss the maintenance window, you’re usually sanding back a mess before you can refinish.

These days, for outdoor furniture that gets real exposure and less-than-perfect maintenance, I lean toward non-film-forming finishes. Things like Osmo UV-Protection Oil, Australian Timber Oil, Penofin, and Rubio DuroGrit. They still need upkeep, but they usually fade and dry out gradually instead of turning into a peeling horror show.

In hot and humid climates, that can be especially useful because film finishes can trap moisture and create a nice little vacation home for mold and mildew. Non-film finishes let the wood breathe a bit more and are generally easier to refresh.

If your project lives under a covered patio, screened porch, or furniture covers, that changes the equation. You’ll get longer maintenance intervals and more finish options. But if it’s sitting out in full sun and weather, pick the finish you’ll actually maintain. Mother Nature always wins eventually. The best you can do is choose how annoying the rematch will be.

@sanyoshovah2887 – What’s the advantage of square dogs vs round dogs? I like the aesthetic of square dogs, but I feel round dogs might be more versatile.

You’re right. Round dogs are generally more versatile. Square dogs are generally cooler. Welcome to woodworking, where practical decisions and romantic nonsense fight constantly.

Round dog holes are easier to add because you’re just drilling 3/4″ holes. You can add them during the build or later, and you can put them almost anywhere you want. They also open the door to a huge ecosystem of accessories, dogs, holdfasts, clamps, stops, fixtures, and about 47,000 3D-printed doodads you may or may not need. The downside is that drilling clean, perfectly perpendicular holes through a thick bench top can be trickier than it sounds. It’s doable, but you need the right bit and ideally some kind of guide to keep the drill straight.

Square dogs are more traditional. They’re usually built into the bench from the beginning, often as part of a dedicated dog strip. They have a nice wide face, they register well against the work, and they’re just satisfying to use. But they’re not nearly as flexible, and you’re not going to casually add square dog holes after the bench is built unless you enjoy unnecessary suffering.

For most people, I’d recommend round 3/4″ dog holes. They’re easier, more flexible, and compatible with a ton of accessories. But if you’re building a traditional bench from scratch and you love the look and feel of square dogs, they’re still a great choice. And remember, choosing square dogs doesn’t mean you can’t also drill a few round holes later. It just depends how much you want your bench to look like Swiss cheese.

Want to submit a question?

Questions for Ask TWW come from our YouTube members and Patreon supporters. If you want a chance to have your question featured in a future episode, join us in either place.

And while you’re there, check out Grain of Truth, my behind-the-scenes series of short tips, advice, and the occasional woodworking-adjacent rant. Which, let’s be honest, is probably the healthiest possible outlet for that sort of thing.

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Friday, April 17, 2026

Custom Built-In Desk, Huge Transformation

There’s something deeply satisfying about taking a built-in that’s barely hanging on and replacing it with something that actually looks like real furniture. That was the mission for this project.

Nicole’s old desk had seen better days. On the surface, it looked like a functional built-in, but once I started digging in, it became clear that it was more of a façade than a properly built piece. So the plan was simple, remove the old setup, rethink the space, and build a custom built-in desk that looked intentional, fit the alcove properly, and gave her a much better place to work (and store her book collection).

Because the opening wasn’t square and the walls weren’t flat, this project started with careful measuring, templating, and a SketchUp model. That planning phase made it possible to dial in the cabinet sizes, work out the face frame layout, and create a desktop template that would eventually drop right into place without any surprises. Or at least that was the hope.

The lower cabinets were built from walnut plywood with solid walnut face frame parts, while the drawer boxes were made from cherry. For the joinery, I used a dowel jig system, partly because I wanted to see how it would hold up in a real-world plywood casework project. A lot of folks ask about alternatives to the Domino, and this gave me a good excuse to live in that ecosystem for a while and see what the workflow was really like.

From there, the project moved into all the little details that make or break built-ins: oversized parts left for scribing, careful drawer fitting, consistent spacing, finish work, and hardware installation. The desktop itself was built using a template made months earlier, and I’ll be honest, dropping that top into place was one of the most stressful moments of the build. But when it slipped into the alcove with no gaps and no drywall damage, it felt like a miracle.

Of course, the project expanded a bit along the way. Once the old desk came out, Nicole asked for upper bookshelves too, which meant more demo, some drywall work, reshaping the opening, and moving a light. You know, just a few tiny “while you’re in there” additions. But the extra effort was worth it. The final result is a custom built-in desk with integrated storage, a clean fitted look, and a matching upper bookcase that makes the whole alcove feel finished.

This video is a condensed look at the build, but the full project goes much deeper. If you want all the details on measuring, planning, case construction, scribing, installation, and the full process behind this project, check out the complete course here: Demystifying Built-Ins

Important Links

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Friday, April 3, 2026

A new tool, an old tool, and some innovations | Tools Unleashed

Welcome to another episode of Tools Unleashed, where we take a first look at interesting and innovative tools you might not have discovered yet. These aren’t deep-dive reviews — just honest first impressions from the shop floor. In this episode, I explore four products that promise to make box joints, bandsaw setup, sanding, and rolling furniture a little easier.

InKleind Blade Square

Price: $54.99
Where to Purchase: InKleind.com

The Inkleind Blade Square is a simple little aluminum square that sticks to your bandsaw blade with magnets and gives you a 90-degree reference surface for a digital angle gauge. It’s a straightforward idea, and that’s part of the appeal. Attach it to the back of the blade, zero out your angle gauge, then place the gauge on the table to see how close you are to square.

The catch is right there in the process: this tool is only as useful as the angle gauge you pair it with. If you don’t already own a decent digital angle gauge, the Blade Square probably isn’t going to do much for you. And even if you do, the final result is still limited by the accuracy of the digital gauge. In my testing, I found I could often see changes with a traditional square before the gauge reading would change, so while the setup got me very close, it wasn’t necessarily more precise than using a good square and a calibrated eyeball. Keep in mind, this is more the fault of the angle gauge than the Blade Square itself.

There’s also another real-world issue to keep in mind: bandsaw tables aren’t always perfectly flat. If you place your gauge in different spots on the table, you can get different readings. So consistency matters. Measure in the same place every time, and do it as close to the blade as possible. That said, I still think this is a nifty little device that plenty of woodworkers will appreciate, especially if they like digital setups and already have a high-quality gauge in the shop.

Smart Casters

Price: R7s – $76 for 4, R8s – $89 for 4
Where to Purchase:  RetractableCaster.com

Smart Casters from Bennington Manufacturing are genuinely clever. Instead of using a lever, lock, or foot pedal, they work by lifting the piece slightly. Lift the item and the caster drops into position. Lift again and it retracts. It’s a simple idea, but it solves a problem in a very elegant way.

I installed the beefier R8 version on my Roubo workbench, which is not exactly what you’d call featherweight. Installation was pretty painless, even with my usual tendency to overcomplicate things. The kit includes hardware, a long drill bit, and a driver, though I opted to use beefier bolts for my application. One of the nicest things about these casters is how easily they can be hidden. On furniture or cabinetry, you could tuck them behind a toe kick and still get full functionality because you don’t need physical access to a lever or release mechanism.

The obvious downside is that you do need to be able to lift the item you’re attaching them to. Fortunately, it only takes about an inch of lift to engage them. If you can manage that, these are about as easy to operate as any caster I’ve seen. Are there cheaper casters out there? Sure. Are there higher-capacity options? Absolutely. But for convenience and ease of use, these are pretty compelling. For the right shop setup, this could be exactly the mobility solution you’ve been looking for.

Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Block

Price: $34 (With sandpaper and stickers) 
Where to Purchase: TWWStore.com

Preppin Weapon

The Preppin’ Weapon from Time Shaver Tools is an old favorite. If you’ve been watching The Wood Whisperer for any length of time, you’ve probably seen me using one of these. My oldest one has been in service for roughly twenty years, and it still works exactly like it should. That kind of longevity tells you just about everything you need to know.

It’s made from high-impact ABS plastic, shaped to fit comfortably in your hand, and designed around one of the smartest little details imaginable: each sheet of sandpaper yields four perfectly sized strips for the block. The coil spring clips on each end make changing paper fast and painless, and the rubber-backed face strikes that nice balance between forgiveness and firmness. It’s soft enough to ride over minor surface variation, but rigid enough to keep your edges crisp. In other words, it sands like a proper sanding block should.

The reason I included it in this episode is simple: we’re now carrying the Preppin’ Weapon at TWWStore.com. I believe in the product enough that I wanted it in our store. And because we like sending folks something useful, when you buy it from us, it comes with six sheets of pre-cut sandpaper so you can get right to work. I’ve used a lot of sanding blocks over the years, and this one is still my favorite. Every woodworker should have one in the shop.

Jessem Box Joint Jig

Price: $249.99
Where to Purchase: Jessem.com

Last up is the Jessem Box Joint Jig for router tables. This is a well-thought-out jig that locks into the miter slot and rides on a smooth bearing-guided base. The fit and finish are solid, the movement is smooth, and the whole thing is designed around three standard box joint sizes: 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″. Swapping between those sizes is just a matter of changing the fence and key assembly.

If you’ve never used a box joint jig before, the basic idea is simple. The key acts as both a spacer and a stop, and its size matches the bit. After a test cut, you dial in the spacing between the key and bit, then use each fresh cut to index the next one. Once the first piece is done, you use it to offset the mating piece so the fingers interlock properly. It’s not complicated, and that’s part of what makes the Jessem appealing. In testing, even a first run in cheap plywood looked pretty darn good, and the solid wood test fit came together beautifully.

Compared to other options, the Jessem lands in a pretty sensible middle ground. A shop-made jig is cheap, but you’re generally locked into a single finger size and you have to build the thing yourself. Something like the Incra i-Box Jig is incredibly versatile, but with that flexibility comes a lot more complexity. The Jessem avoids much of that by being purpose-built for the router table and standardized router bit sizes. That makes setup simpler and use more intuitive, though the tradeoff is that you’re limited to three sizes. As usual, it’s a give-and-take situation. But if you want a simple, reliable way to cut clean box joints, this jig is definitely worth a look.

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Tuesday, March 31, 2026

YouTube Thumbnail Designer Wanted, Human-Made, No AI

We’re hiring a thumbnail designer for The Wood Whisperer.

We’re looking for someone who can create strong, polished YouTube thumbnails for an established woodworking channel. The goal is simple: make people want to click, without making the thumbnail feel cheesy, misleading, or overdone.

About the channel
Our content is rooted in woodworking, but the thumbnails should have broad appeal. We care about story, emotion, curiosity, honesty and clarity.

What we’re looking for

  • Custom thumbnails for long-form YouTube videos
  • Strong compositing and retouching skills
  • Great cutouts, lighting work, text treatment, and overall visual hierarchy
  • Ability to work from photos, video stills, and a short explanation of the video
  • A style that feels consistent with the channel, but flexible enough to fit different projects
  • Reliable turnaround and openness to revisions when needed

A note on workflow
We want thumbnails built from real images and solid design skills. Please do not use generated faces, generated backgrounds, or fully generated composite elements. We’re looking for someone who can build the final image by hand using provided assets, licensed stock when appropriate, and traditional editing techniques.

The style we like

  • Clean, modern, high-contrast images
  • Clear focal point
  • Strong subject separation
  • Real emotion and a sense of story
  • Thoughtful use of drama, tension, transformation, or intrigue
  • Minimal text, only when it genuinely helps
  • Nothing that feels fake, spammy, or generic

To apply, email info@thewoodwhisperer.com with

  • 5 to 10 thumbnail examples you made for real YouTube channels
  • A short explanation of how you approach thumbnail design
  • Your pricing, per thumbnail or monthly
  • Your typical turnaround time
  • Whether you provide layered source files

Bonus points if you

  • Are a woodworker or maker yourself
  • Have worked with maker, DIY, education, or story-driven YouTube channels
  • Understand how to make a thumbnail perform without leaning on cheap clickbait
  • Can offer input on titles or thumbnail text

If your work is sharp, thoughtful, and built to get attention without insulting the viewer, we’d love to see it.

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Friday, March 27, 2026

This 120-Year-Old Book Press Was Destroyed… So I Rebuilt It

Special thanks to Woodcraft for their support of our show!

A Shipping Disaster

Book conservator Noah Smutz found a vintage book press at auction, a perfect addition to his shop.Built in 1905 by Hickok Manufacturing, it’s ideal for preserving rare books, Bibles, and manuscripts. Unfortunately, the press didn’t survive shipping.

It arrived with severe damage. The press had tipped over in transit, cracking the wooden frame at multiple joints and compromising the structure. The impact shattered the mortise and tenon joints and broke several cast iron components, including the handwheel. Considering a press like this can generate thousands of pounds of force, a simple repair wasn’t going to be enough.

That’s when the project shifted from a repair to a full book press rebuild.

The Rebuild

Instead of patching the damaged frame, we rebuilt the wooden structure from scratch while preserving as much of the original hardware as possible.

The new frame was made from hard maple, laminated from thick stock to achieve the necessary strength and mass. From there, the build focused on robust joinery, including large mortise and tenon joints and drawbored pegs, all carefully fitted to work with the original cast iron parts.

We made a few subtle design improvements along the way, raising the lower rail and lowering the top crossmember slightly to better suit Noah’s workflow. These changes reduce the need for blocking during use and improve the press’s overall stability.

With the frame complete, the original components were cleaned, repaired, and reinstalled. The goal wasn’t to make the press look brand new, but to give it another century of useful life while respecting its history.

Delivery

Final assembly took place in Noah’s shop in St. Louis, where the book press rebuild finally came together. Seeing it back in service, pressing newly restored books, was the perfect reminder of what this project was really about.

This wasn’t just a rebuild. It was a chance to preserve a tool that plays a small but important role in preserving history itself.

Links

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Friday, March 20, 2026

10 Must-Build Shop Projects (Jigs, Fixtures & Furniture)

Special thanks to Woodcraft for their support of our show!

Over the years, I’ve had a lot of different shops including several garage shops and now a large Firehouse shop. Each move brought a fresh set of challenges. And almost every time, the solution wasn’t buying something, it was building something.

That’s really what shop projects are all about. They’re not just filler builds. They’re problem-solvers. Workflow improvers. Sanity savers. And honestly, when I’m burned out, this is the stuff I gravitate toward. There’s something incredibly satisfying about dialing in your space and making it work better for you.

So in this compilation, I revisited a handful of my favorite shop projects, some simple, some more involved, all designed to solve real problems. If you’re looking to improve your shop, there’s probably something here for you.

Cross-Cut Sled, The Ultimate Table Saw Upgrade

Watch the full video:
👉 Cross-Cut Sled

A good cross-cut sled is one of the most impactful upgrades you can make to your table saw. At its core, it’s simple, a base, two fences, and runners. But the magic is in how it supports the workpiece. Unlike a miter gauge, the sled keeps your stock fully supported and square to the blade throughout the cut. That means better accuracy, cleaner cuts, and improved safety.

This particular sled used an HDO fence and was dialed in using the five-cut method. Yes, it involves math. Yes, it can make you question your life choices. But when it’s done right, it’s dead accurate. These days I use an Incra 5000, but if you’re on a budget, a shop-made sled is a no-brainer.

Compact Plane Till, Storage That Works With You

Watch the full video:
👉 Compact Plane Till

This is one of those projects that quietly becomes indispensable. The Compact Plane Till holds multiple planes, keeps them protected, and more importantly, keeps them visible and accessible. I’m firmly in the “don’t hide your tools” camp. If I can see it, I’m more likely to use it.

Built from cherry with a plywood back, this design balances durability with practicality. One lesson learned the hard way, don’t glue your dividers. Future-you will want flexibility. Add magnets for security, lay out your tools before building, and you’ve got a storage solution that will last for years.

Adjustable Height Work Support, Simple and Effective

Watch the full video:
👉 Adjustable Height Work Support

This project proves you don’t need anything fancy to solve a real problem. Made from basic construction lumber, this adjustable support is perfect for breaking down sheet goods or supporting long workpieces. A simple pin system allows for height adjustments, and while it’s not infinitely adjustable, it gets the job done.

Would it be better with perfectly spaced drill press holes? Sure. Did it still work great with “close enough”? Also yes. Sometimes “good enough” is exactly what your shop needs.

Giant Assembly Table, The Heart of the Shop

Watch the full video:
👉 Giant Assembly Table

Every shop needs a solid assembly surface, and this one has been a workhorse. Built from southern yellow pine and topped with laminated plywood, this table embraces a key philosophy: mostly flat is flat enough. No torsion box required.

It also pulls double duty with storage, drawers, clamp racks, pegboard, making it a true central hub in the shop. If you’re going to build one big shop project, this might be the one.

Drill Bit Storage Cabinet, Small Upgrade, Big Impact

Watch the full video:
👉 Drill Bit Storage Cabinet

Drill bits tossed in a drawer is a recipe for frustration. This cabinet organizes everything cleanly and protects your bits at the same time. Built from plywood with cherry accents, it’s a great example of using shop furniture to practice furniture-making skills.

Dados, rabbets, a mitered door with splines, this isn’t just storage, it’s a skill-builder. And the French cleat mounting makes it easy to hang and reposition as needed.

Drill Charging Station, Contain the Chaos

Watch the full video:
👉 Drill Charging Station

If your cordless tools are scattered across the shop, this project is a game changer. With dedicated slots for drills, shelves for accessories, and space for chargers, it creates a centralized hub for your most-used tools.

It’s built entirely from plywood using simple joinery, but the impact on organization is huge. And yes, you might end up with extra slots…which is a great excuse to buy more tools.

Quick Shop Cabinets, Built for Your Space

Watch the full video:
👉 Quick Easy Shop Cabinets

Custom shop cabinets are where things really start to click. In this case, the biggest challenge was a sloped floor. The solution? Build a level platform first, then build the cabinets on top of it.

This approach simplifies everything and avoids complicated cabinet adjustments. From there, it’s all about customization, drawers, doors, pullouts, whatever your workflow demands. And while hardware costs can add up, the efficiency gains are worth it.

Double Your Drawer Storage, A Simple Hack

Watch the full video:
👉 Double Drawer Storage

This is one of those “why didn’t I do this sooner” projects. By adding a sliding upper tray inside an existing drawer, you effectively double your usable storage space.

It’s perfect for shallow tools, layout gear, pencils, and small accessories. And it requires minimal modification to your existing drawer. Simple idea, huge payoff.

Fancy Tool Holders, Because Why Not?

Watch the full video:
👉 Fancy Walnut Tool Holders

Shop projects don’t always have to be purely utilitarian. These walnut tool holders bring a little style into the shop while still being incredibly functional. From chisel racks to scraper holders, each piece is designed around the tool it holds.

That’s really the key takeaway here, let the tool dictate the design. Also, magnets. Always a good idea.

Space-Saving Plywood Cart, Smarter Material Storage

Watch the full video:
👉  Plywood Cart

Sheet goods storage can get out of hand fast. This cart solves that by creating a pivoting, wall-mounted system that keeps plywood accessible without taking up a ton of space.

Mounted on hinges with casters for support, it swings out when needed and tucks away when it’s not. It’s efficient, compact, and surprisingly easy to use, even when fully loaded.

Build a Shop That Works for You

Every shop is different. Different tools, different spaces, different priorities. But the common thread through all of these projects is intentionality. Each one solves a real problem. Each one makes the shop a little more enjoyable to work in.

And that’s really the goal.

Because when your shop works better, you work better. So if something here sparked an idea, run with it. Build it. Modify it. Make it your own.

Your future self will thank you.

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Friday, March 6, 2026

Build a Curved Spa-Style Towel Rack with Bent Lamination

Woodcraft – Find your local store!

Don’t Miss the Pre-Order Bonus Offer! – Demystifying Builtins 

What is Bent Lamination?

Bent lamination is exactly what it sounds like. Instead of bending a thick board, you:

  1. Cut the wood into thin strips

  2. Apply glue to each strip

  3. Stack them together

  4. Clamp the stack around a curved form

Once the glue dries, the laminated stack holds the curved shape permanently. The result is strong, stable, and surprisingly elegant.

Designing the Bending Form

Everything starts with the form. Whatever shape you build into the form will ultimately define the final curve.

For this towel rack, I drew the curve directly onto sheet material and cut it out using typical shop tools. A CNC would make this quick work, but honestly this is an easy job with basic tools too.

The first cut piece becomes the template. I stacked several layers together to get the thickness needed for the form, then glued and nailed them together before flush trimming them to match the template perfectly.

Because the finished bent part is about ½″ thick, the mating half of the form needs a complementary curve offset by that amount. You could measure and draw that offset, but sometimes you get lucky, like when a washer happens to be the perfect size to trace the curve.

Bending the Lamination

With the form complete, the process is pretty straightforward:

• Cut thin strips of wood
• Apply glue to each strip
• Stack them together
• Clamp the stack tightly around the form

This pressure forces the strips to take on the curve of the form. After the glue cures, the laminated piece holds its shape permanently.

A Practical Bathroom Upgrade

The final result is a simple spa-inspired towel rack designed to hold multiple clean towels without making the bathroom feel cluttered. The gentle curves created by bent lamination give the piece a soft, modern look while keeping the construction strong and lightweight.

Bent lamination might sound intimidating, but once you try it, it quickly becomes one of the most versatile techniques in your woodworking toolkit.

One of the most satisfying things in woodworking is convincing wood to do something it doesn’t naturally want to do. Sometimes you coax it. Sometimes you force it. Either way, the results can be pretty amazing when you learn the art of bent lamination.

In this project I’m building a spa-style towel rack with bent lamination for our bathroom. It’s a great way to create smooth curves that would otherwise be difficult, or impossible, to achieve with solid wood.

Video Links

Stuff You Need

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Thursday, February 26, 2026

Try a Woodworking Jam Session

When I was in 10th grade, I went to my friend Joe’s house. Joe was a pretty cool dude. Good looking, played the drums, effortlessly confident. He took me upstairs to his bedroom where his drum kit lived and started playing along to music blasting through the speakers of his boom box. Remember those?

Most people would call it an assault on the eardrums. I was mesmerized.

Suddenly I wasn’t in Joe’s bedroom anymore. I was on a stage. Tommy Lee was in front of me, Vince Neil was belting out Girls, Girls, Girls, and somehow I belonged there. If you don’t like Mötley Crüe, get your own fantasy!

That moment stuck with me. It was a turning point. I realized I didn’t just want to watch music happen. I wanted to be part of it.

Making It Work

Luckily, I had musicians in the family. My step-dad was in a country music band and I had a few uncles that had extra equipment laying around. Before long, an old drum set that had been collecting dust in an attic made its way into my basement. It was incomplete, mismatched, and missing hardware.

No tom mounts? No problem.

Using some of my Jersey ingenuity, I threw a ladder over a couple of garbage cans and dropped the toms between the rungs. A little rope, some wire, questionable engineering decisions, and boom, a mostly operational drum kit. I wish I had a picture of it. It was ridiculous. But it worked. I started teaching myself how to play.

Looking back, I’m amazed my mom allowed it. Acoustic drums in a basement are not subtle. And we lived in a small house in Trenton, NJ with no insulation between the basement and main floor with neighbors in close proximity. Sound just went right through ceiling and walls. But Mom always said she liked hearing it because it meant I was home and safe. As a parent now, I understand that in a way I couldn’t back then.

The Magic of a Jam Session

Not long after, I found a few friends at school and we started playing together. We weren’t good. We never would be. But that wasn’t the point.

If you’ve never played an instrument, here’s something you might not realize: there’s a huge difference between playing music you’ve memorized (or read) and creating something together in real time.

A jam session usually starts small. A guitarist plays a few chords. The bass player finds a groove underneath it. The drummer listens for the pulse and locks it in. Everyone is playing their own part, but they’re also constantly listening, adjusting, reacting.

It’s creative tension and cooperation happening simultaneously. When it clicks, it’s electric. You’re interpreting someone else’s intention in real time. You’re offering your own ideas without overpowering the whole. You’re building something none of you would have created alone.

That feeling is hard to describe. But when you experience it, you chase it.

The Woodworking Version

Years later, I realized I’ve been chasing that same feeling in the shop. I don’t think we talk enough about collaboration in woodworking. A lot of designers operate solo. And that makes sense. Designing is personal. It’s vulnerable. It’s easy to want full ownership of the idea. But that’s rarely my approach.

I consider myself an average designer. Most of what I create is derivative in some way, influenced by the thousands of pieces I’ve studied and the countless woodworkers I’ve learned from over the years. So why would I pretend my ideas spring from a vacuum? If anything, I want input.

Not from just anyone, of course. I’m selective. I trust experience. I value thoughtful critique over unsolicited opinion. And I care deeply about aesthetic alignment. But when I find the right collaborator, magic happens.

My SketchUp Jam Partner

One of those collaborators has been Brian Benham. For years, Brian helped bring Wood Whisperer designs to life. He created plans, built SketchUp models, and contributed to the design credit on many Guild projects. If you’ve taken a Guild course, you’ve seen his fingerprints. Brian even has several courses in the Guild including one on designing in Sketchup.

Here’s how it usually works. I send Brian everything I have, measurements, constraints, angles, reference photos, and my very imperfect SketchUp model. I’m competent enough in SketchUp to get things 50 to 60 percent there. An approximation, but not refined.

Then we hop on Zoom. Brian opens SketchUp and shares his screen. And this is where it feels exactly like a jam session.

Collaborative Zoom Call

I’ll say, “What if we soften that curve?” He draws it instantly.
“What if that leg tapers a little more aggressively?” Done.
“Can we see what it looks like with a different angle?” On the screen in seconds.

But he’s not just drafting my ideas. He’s reacting. Suggesting. Improving.

“Have you considered lowering the rail?”
“That proportion feels heavy.”
“What if we echoed that angle here?”

Back and forth. No ego. No defensiveness. Just exploration.

I’ve done this with Brian 20 or 30 times over the years. Just recently, we did a quick consult on a table I’m building for my buddy Jason. The concept wasn’t fully formed, but after an hour of jamming, it was clear enough to move confidently into prototypes and shop work.

That’s the payoff. Before a single board is cut, the design is stronger.

Why This Matters

Collaboration does a few powerful things:

  • It confirms good instincts
  • It exposes weak ones
  • It prevents expensive mistakes
  • It accelerates refinement
  • It pushes you beyond your default thinking

Most importantly, it reminds you that woodworking doesn’t have to be a solitary pursuit.

We romanticize the lone craftsman. But historically, workshops were collaborative spaces. Apprentices, masters, peers, all working, observing, critiquing. The modern version might just be Zoom and SketchUp (or your software of choice).

Try Your Own Jam Session

I don’t know what kind of access you have to other woodworkers. Maybe it’s a friend at the local woodworking club. Maybe it’s someone in the Wood Whisperer Guild. Maybe it’s me and you’ve hired me for a consultation.

But if you ever get the chance to “jam” on a design together, take it. Share your rough sketch. Share your half-baked idea. Get on a call. Let someone else poke at it. With the right person, it’s exhilarating. Two minds exploring what-ifs. Throwing out ideas. Refining proportions. Building something neither of you would have created alone.

Maybe someday I’ll reach a point where I don’t want outside input. Maybe I’ll be so confident that another opinion would only muddy the water. But I doubt it. Because for me, woodworking isn’t just about building furniture. It’s about making something better than my last project and constantly trying to fill gaps in my woodworking education. Other people with unique perspectives and backgrounds are a great cheat code for achieving that goal.

And that’s music to my ears!

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