Friday, May 1, 2026

Why Exterior Finishes FAIL | Ask TWW

Welcome back to Ask TWW, where you ask the questions and I do my best to answer without wandering too far into the weeds. Today we’re talking about lubricating drill bits, shop pencils, exterior finishes in hot and humid climates, and the age-old battle of square dogs vs round dogs.

Relevant Links

@ericsturgulewski2399 – I noticed you sprayed something on a Forstner bit in a recent video. I’ve never really seen anyone use lubricant when drilling wood before. Does it leave any kind of stain?

That was a dry lubricant, specifically BladeCote. And no, it’s not the same thing as spraying oily lube all over your woodworking tools. Please don’t do that unless your goal is to make finishing even more complicated than it already is. Dry lube goes on wet, but the carrier flashes off quickly and leaves behind a thin lubricating film. That film helps reduce friction, which means less heat, less burning, and less premature dulling of the bit or blade.

This is especially helpful with something like a Forstner bit in a deep hole. Those bits can heat up quickly, and if the chips don’t clear well, things can get ugly fast. A little dry lube, plus clearing the chips as you go, can make a big difference.

The key is using a lubricant that’s actually meant for woodworking tools. Wet lubricants can soak into the wood, stain the surface, gum up the dust, and create a nasty paste that makes the problem worse. A good dry lube won’t do that. I use it on drill bits, router bits, table saw blades, bandsaw blades, and pretty much anything in the shop that cuts and gets hot.

@RidgidRon – Do you have a favorite between a regular pencil, carpenter pencil, and marking knife?

It depends on the job. I know, very exciting answer. But in the shop, marking tools usually fall into three categories, rough, medium, and fine.

For rough marking, I like Pica pencils. The lead is thick, durable, and easy to see. I keep one with regular lead and one with white lead for darker woods. Carpenter pencils live in this same rough category. They’re fine for construction and general carpentry, but for furniture work and joinery layout, they’re a little like using a sledgehammer to adjust a hinge.

For everyday layout, I like a .7mm mechanical pencil. It’s precise enough for most work, sturdy enough that the lead doesn’t snap every three seconds, and it works nicely with measuring tools that have marking holes.

For finer work, I’ll use a .5mm mechanical pencil or a marking knife. A .5mm pencil gives a very fine line, but the lead is more fragile, so don’t write with the enthusiasm of a toddler holding a crayon.

A marking knife is the precision king. It gives you a super fine line, severs the wood fibers, and can help guide a saw or chisel. But it’s not forgiving. You can’t erase a knife line, and depending on your lighting and eyesight, it can be harder to see.

So the short version is this, Pica pencil for rough work, .7mm mechanical pencil for general layout, and .5mm pencil or marking knife when precision really matters.

@teresasaint7220 – How do you recommend finishing a wood piece that will be outside in a sunny and soupy humid climate?

First of all, I love the word soupy. Apparently not everyone uses it, which is both surprising and mildly disappointing.

For outdoor furniture, the big enemy isn’t just rain or humidity. It’s the sun. UV exposure breaks finishes down, and once the finish starts to fail, moisture gets in and the whole thing starts moving downhill.

That means the real question isn’t, “What finish will last forever?” because that finish doesn’t exist. The better question is, “What finish am I actually willing to maintain?”

Film finishes, like varnish, can look great and offer excellent protection, especially early on. But when they fail, they tend to fail dramatically. Cracking, peeling, flaking, the whole greatest hits album. And once you miss the maintenance window, you’re usually sanding back a mess before you can refinish.

These days, for outdoor furniture that gets real exposure and less-than-perfect maintenance, I lean toward non-film-forming finishes. Things like Osmo UV-Protection Oil, Australian Timber Oil, Penofin, and Rubio DuroGrit. They still need upkeep, but they usually fade and dry out gradually instead of turning into a peeling horror show.

In hot and humid climates, that can be especially useful because film finishes can trap moisture and create a nice little vacation home for mold and mildew. Non-film finishes let the wood breathe a bit more and are generally easier to refresh.

If your project lives under a covered patio, screened porch, or furniture covers, that changes the equation. You’ll get longer maintenance intervals and more finish options. But if it’s sitting out in full sun and weather, pick the finish you’ll actually maintain. Mother Nature always wins eventually. The best you can do is choose how annoying the rematch will be.

@sanyoshovah2887 – What’s the advantage of square dogs vs round dogs? I like the aesthetic of square dogs, but I feel round dogs might be more versatile.

You’re right. Round dogs are generally more versatile. Square dogs are generally cooler. Welcome to woodworking, where practical decisions and romantic nonsense fight constantly.

Round dog holes are easier to add because you’re just drilling 3/4″ holes. You can add them during the build or later, and you can put them almost anywhere you want. They also open the door to a huge ecosystem of accessories, dogs, holdfasts, clamps, stops, fixtures, and about 47,000 3D-printed doodads you may or may not need. The downside is that drilling clean, perfectly perpendicular holes through a thick bench top can be trickier than it sounds. It’s doable, but you need the right bit and ideally some kind of guide to keep the drill straight.

Square dogs are more traditional. They’re usually built into the bench from the beginning, often as part of a dedicated dog strip. They have a nice wide face, they register well against the work, and they’re just satisfying to use. But they’re not nearly as flexible, and you’re not going to casually add square dog holes after the bench is built unless you enjoy unnecessary suffering.

For most people, I’d recommend round 3/4″ dog holes. They’re easier, more flexible, and compatible with a ton of accessories. But if you’re building a traditional bench from scratch and you love the look and feel of square dogs, they’re still a great choice. And remember, choosing square dogs doesn’t mean you can’t also drill a few round holes later. It just depends how much you want your bench to look like Swiss cheese.

Want to submit a question?

Questions for Ask TWW come from our YouTube members and Patreon supporters. If you want a chance to have your question featured in a future episode, join us in either place.

And while you’re there, check out Grain of Truth, my behind-the-scenes series of short tips, advice, and the occasional woodworking-adjacent rant. Which, let’s be honest, is probably the healthiest possible outlet for that sort of thing.

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Friday, April 17, 2026

Custom Built-In Desk, Huge Transformation

There’s something deeply satisfying about taking a built-in that’s barely hanging on and replacing it with something that actually looks like real furniture. That was the mission for this project.

Nicole’s old desk had seen better days. On the surface, it looked like a functional built-in, but once I started digging in, it became clear that it was more of a façade than a properly built piece. So the plan was simple, remove the old setup, rethink the space, and build a custom built-in desk that looked intentional, fit the alcove properly, and gave her a much better place to work (and store her book collection).

Because the opening wasn’t square and the walls weren’t flat, this project started with careful measuring, templating, and a SketchUp model. That planning phase made it possible to dial in the cabinet sizes, work out the face frame layout, and create a desktop template that would eventually drop right into place without any surprises. Or at least that was the hope.

The lower cabinets were built from walnut plywood with solid walnut face frame parts, while the drawer boxes were made from cherry. For the joinery, I used a dowel jig system, partly because I wanted to see how it would hold up in a real-world plywood casework project. A lot of folks ask about alternatives to the Domino, and this gave me a good excuse to live in that ecosystem for a while and see what the workflow was really like.

From there, the project moved into all the little details that make or break built-ins: oversized parts left for scribing, careful drawer fitting, consistent spacing, finish work, and hardware installation. The desktop itself was built using a template made months earlier, and I’ll be honest, dropping that top into place was one of the most stressful moments of the build. But when it slipped into the alcove with no gaps and no drywall damage, it felt like a miracle.

Of course, the project expanded a bit along the way. Once the old desk came out, Nicole asked for upper bookshelves too, which meant more demo, some drywall work, reshaping the opening, and moving a light. You know, just a few tiny “while you’re in there” additions. But the extra effort was worth it. The final result is a custom built-in desk with integrated storage, a clean fitted look, and a matching upper bookcase that makes the whole alcove feel finished.

This video is a condensed look at the build, but the full project goes much deeper. If you want all the details on measuring, planning, case construction, scribing, installation, and the full process behind this project, check out the complete course here: Demystifying Built-Ins

Important Links

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Friday, April 3, 2026

A new tool, an old tool, and some innovations | Tools Unleashed

Welcome to another episode of Tools Unleashed, where we take a first look at interesting and innovative tools you might not have discovered yet. These aren’t deep-dive reviews — just honest first impressions from the shop floor. In this episode, I explore four products that promise to make box joints, bandsaw setup, sanding, and rolling furniture a little easier.

InKleind Blade Square

Price: $54.99
Where to Purchase: InKleind.com

The Inkleind Blade Square is a simple little aluminum square that sticks to your bandsaw blade with magnets and gives you a 90-degree reference surface for a digital angle gauge. It’s a straightforward idea, and that’s part of the appeal. Attach it to the back of the blade, zero out your angle gauge, then place the gauge on the table to see how close you are to square.

The catch is right there in the process: this tool is only as useful as the angle gauge you pair it with. If you don’t already own a decent digital angle gauge, the Blade Square probably isn’t going to do much for you. And even if you do, the final result is still limited by the accuracy of the digital gauge. In my testing, I found I could often see changes with a traditional square before the gauge reading would change, so while the setup got me very close, it wasn’t necessarily more precise than using a good square and a calibrated eyeball. Keep in mind, this is more the fault of the angle gauge than the Blade Square itself.

There’s also another real-world issue to keep in mind: bandsaw tables aren’t always perfectly flat. If you place your gauge in different spots on the table, you can get different readings. So consistency matters. Measure in the same place every time, and do it as close to the blade as possible. That said, I still think this is a nifty little device that plenty of woodworkers will appreciate, especially if they like digital setups and already have a high-quality gauge in the shop.

Smart Casters

Price: R7s – $76 for 4, R8s – $89 for 4
Where to Purchase:  RetractableCaster.com

Smart Casters from Bennington Manufacturing are genuinely clever. Instead of using a lever, lock, or foot pedal, they work by lifting the piece slightly. Lift the item and the caster drops into position. Lift again and it retracts. It’s a simple idea, but it solves a problem in a very elegant way.

I installed the beefier R8 version on my Roubo workbench, which is not exactly what you’d call featherweight. Installation was pretty painless, even with my usual tendency to overcomplicate things. The kit includes hardware, a long drill bit, and a driver, though I opted to use beefier bolts for my application. One of the nicest things about these casters is how easily they can be hidden. On furniture or cabinetry, you could tuck them behind a toe kick and still get full functionality because you don’t need physical access to a lever or release mechanism.

The obvious downside is that you do need to be able to lift the item you’re attaching them to. Fortunately, it only takes about an inch of lift to engage them. If you can manage that, these are about as easy to operate as any caster I’ve seen. Are there cheaper casters out there? Sure. Are there higher-capacity options? Absolutely. But for convenience and ease of use, these are pretty compelling. For the right shop setup, this could be exactly the mobility solution you’ve been looking for.

Preppin’ Weapon Sanding Block

Price: $34 (With sandpaper and stickers) 
Where to Purchase: TWWStore.com

Preppin Weapon

The Preppin’ Weapon from Time Shaver Tools is an old favorite. If you’ve been watching The Wood Whisperer for any length of time, you’ve probably seen me using one of these. My oldest one has been in service for roughly twenty years, and it still works exactly like it should. That kind of longevity tells you just about everything you need to know.

It’s made from high-impact ABS plastic, shaped to fit comfortably in your hand, and designed around one of the smartest little details imaginable: each sheet of sandpaper yields four perfectly sized strips for the block. The coil spring clips on each end make changing paper fast and painless, and the rubber-backed face strikes that nice balance between forgiveness and firmness. It’s soft enough to ride over minor surface variation, but rigid enough to keep your edges crisp. In other words, it sands like a proper sanding block should.

The reason I included it in this episode is simple: we’re now carrying the Preppin’ Weapon at TWWStore.com. I believe in the product enough that I wanted it in our store. And because we like sending folks something useful, when you buy it from us, it comes with six sheets of pre-cut sandpaper so you can get right to work. I’ve used a lot of sanding blocks over the years, and this one is still my favorite. Every woodworker should have one in the shop.

Jessem Box Joint Jig

Price: $249.99
Where to Purchase: Jessem.com

Last up is the Jessem Box Joint Jig for router tables. This is a well-thought-out jig that locks into the miter slot and rides on a smooth bearing-guided base. The fit and finish are solid, the movement is smooth, and the whole thing is designed around three standard box joint sizes: 1/4″, 3/8″, and 1/2″. Swapping between those sizes is just a matter of changing the fence and key assembly.

If you’ve never used a box joint jig before, the basic idea is simple. The key acts as both a spacer and a stop, and its size matches the bit. After a test cut, you dial in the spacing between the key and bit, then use each fresh cut to index the next one. Once the first piece is done, you use it to offset the mating piece so the fingers interlock properly. It’s not complicated, and that’s part of what makes the Jessem appealing. In testing, even a first run in cheap plywood looked pretty darn good, and the solid wood test fit came together beautifully.

Compared to other options, the Jessem lands in a pretty sensible middle ground. A shop-made jig is cheap, but you’re generally locked into a single finger size and you have to build the thing yourself. Something like the Incra i-Box Jig is incredibly versatile, but with that flexibility comes a lot more complexity. The Jessem avoids much of that by being purpose-built for the router table and standardized router bit sizes. That makes setup simpler and use more intuitive, though the tradeoff is that you’re limited to three sizes. As usual, it’s a give-and-take situation. But if you want a simple, reliable way to cut clean box joints, this jig is definitely worth a look.

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Tuesday, March 31, 2026

YouTube Thumbnail Designer Wanted, Human-Made, No AI

We’re hiring a thumbnail designer for The Wood Whisperer.

We’re looking for someone who can create strong, polished YouTube thumbnails for an established woodworking channel. The goal is simple: make people want to click, without making the thumbnail feel cheesy, misleading, or overdone.

About the channel
Our content is rooted in woodworking, but the thumbnails should have broad appeal. We care about story, emotion, curiosity, honesty and clarity.

What we’re looking for

  • Custom thumbnails for long-form YouTube videos
  • Strong compositing and retouching skills
  • Great cutouts, lighting work, text treatment, and overall visual hierarchy
  • Ability to work from photos, video stills, and a short explanation of the video
  • A style that feels consistent with the channel, but flexible enough to fit different projects
  • Reliable turnaround and openness to revisions when needed

A note on workflow
We want thumbnails built from real images and solid design skills. Please do not use generated faces, generated backgrounds, or fully generated composite elements. We’re looking for someone who can build the final image by hand using provided assets, licensed stock when appropriate, and traditional editing techniques.

The style we like

  • Clean, modern, high-contrast images
  • Clear focal point
  • Strong subject separation
  • Real emotion and a sense of story
  • Thoughtful use of drama, tension, transformation, or intrigue
  • Minimal text, only when it genuinely helps
  • Nothing that feels fake, spammy, or generic

To apply, email info@thewoodwhisperer.com with

  • 5 to 10 thumbnail examples you made for real YouTube channels
  • A short explanation of how you approach thumbnail design
  • Your pricing, per thumbnail or monthly
  • Your typical turnaround time
  • Whether you provide layered source files

Bonus points if you

  • Are a woodworker or maker yourself
  • Have worked with maker, DIY, education, or story-driven YouTube channels
  • Understand how to make a thumbnail perform without leaning on cheap clickbait
  • Can offer input on titles or thumbnail text

If your work is sharp, thoughtful, and built to get attention without insulting the viewer, we’d love to see it.

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Friday, March 27, 2026

This 120-Year-Old Book Press Was Destroyed… So I Rebuilt It

Special thanks to Woodcraft for their support of our show!

A Shipping Disaster

Book conservator Noah Smutz found a vintage book press at auction, a perfect addition to his shop.Built in 1905 by Hickok Manufacturing, it’s ideal for preserving rare books, Bibles, and manuscripts. Unfortunately, the press didn’t survive shipping.

It arrived with severe damage. The press had tipped over in transit, cracking the wooden frame at multiple joints and compromising the structure. The impact shattered the mortise and tenon joints and broke several cast iron components, including the handwheel. Considering a press like this can generate thousands of pounds of force, a simple repair wasn’t going to be enough.

That’s when the project shifted from a repair to a full book press rebuild.

The Rebuild

Instead of patching the damaged frame, we rebuilt the wooden structure from scratch while preserving as much of the original hardware as possible.

The new frame was made from hard maple, laminated from thick stock to achieve the necessary strength and mass. From there, the build focused on robust joinery, including large mortise and tenon joints and drawbored pegs, all carefully fitted to work with the original cast iron parts.

We made a few subtle design improvements along the way, raising the lower rail and lowering the top crossmember slightly to better suit Noah’s workflow. These changes reduce the need for blocking during use and improve the press’s overall stability.

With the frame complete, the original components were cleaned, repaired, and reinstalled. The goal wasn’t to make the press look brand new, but to give it another century of useful life while respecting its history.

Delivery

Final assembly took place in Noah’s shop in St. Louis, where the book press rebuild finally came together. Seeing it back in service, pressing newly restored books, was the perfect reminder of what this project was really about.

This wasn’t just a rebuild. It was a chance to preserve a tool that plays a small but important role in preserving history itself.

Links

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Friday, March 20, 2026

10 Must-Build Shop Projects (Jigs, Fixtures & Furniture)

Special thanks to Woodcraft for their support of our show!

Over the years, I’ve had a lot of different shops including several garage shops and now a large Firehouse shop. Each move brought a fresh set of challenges. And almost every time, the solution wasn’t buying something, it was building something.

That’s really what shop projects are all about. They’re not just filler builds. They’re problem-solvers. Workflow improvers. Sanity savers. And honestly, when I’m burned out, this is the stuff I gravitate toward. There’s something incredibly satisfying about dialing in your space and making it work better for you.

So in this compilation, I revisited a handful of my favorite shop projects, some simple, some more involved, all designed to solve real problems. If you’re looking to improve your shop, there’s probably something here for you.

Cross-Cut Sled, The Ultimate Table Saw Upgrade

Watch the full video:
👉 Cross-Cut Sled

A good cross-cut sled is one of the most impactful upgrades you can make to your table saw. At its core, it’s simple, a base, two fences, and runners. But the magic is in how it supports the workpiece. Unlike a miter gauge, the sled keeps your stock fully supported and square to the blade throughout the cut. That means better accuracy, cleaner cuts, and improved safety.

This particular sled used an HDO fence and was dialed in using the five-cut method. Yes, it involves math. Yes, it can make you question your life choices. But when it’s done right, it’s dead accurate. These days I use an Incra 5000, but if you’re on a budget, a shop-made sled is a no-brainer.

Compact Plane Till, Storage That Works With You

Watch the full video:
👉 Compact Plane Till

This is one of those projects that quietly becomes indispensable. The Compact Plane Till holds multiple planes, keeps them protected, and more importantly, keeps them visible and accessible. I’m firmly in the “don’t hide your tools” camp. If I can see it, I’m more likely to use it.

Built from cherry with a plywood back, this design balances durability with practicality. One lesson learned the hard way, don’t glue your dividers. Future-you will want flexibility. Add magnets for security, lay out your tools before building, and you’ve got a storage solution that will last for years.

Adjustable Height Work Support, Simple and Effective

Watch the full video:
👉 Adjustable Height Work Support

This project proves you don’t need anything fancy to solve a real problem. Made from basic construction lumber, this adjustable support is perfect for breaking down sheet goods or supporting long workpieces. A simple pin system allows for height adjustments, and while it’s not infinitely adjustable, it gets the job done.

Would it be better with perfectly spaced drill press holes? Sure. Did it still work great with “close enough”? Also yes. Sometimes “good enough” is exactly what your shop needs.

Giant Assembly Table, The Heart of the Shop

Watch the full video:
👉 Giant Assembly Table

Every shop needs a solid assembly surface, and this one has been a workhorse. Built from southern yellow pine and topped with laminated plywood, this table embraces a key philosophy: mostly flat is flat enough. No torsion box required.

It also pulls double duty with storage, drawers, clamp racks, pegboard, making it a true central hub in the shop. If you’re going to build one big shop project, this might be the one.

Drill Bit Storage Cabinet, Small Upgrade, Big Impact

Watch the full video:
👉 Drill Bit Storage Cabinet

Drill bits tossed in a drawer is a recipe for frustration. This cabinet organizes everything cleanly and protects your bits at the same time. Built from plywood with cherry accents, it’s a great example of using shop furniture to practice furniture-making skills.

Dados, rabbets, a mitered door with splines, this isn’t just storage, it’s a skill-builder. And the French cleat mounting makes it easy to hang and reposition as needed.

Drill Charging Station, Contain the Chaos

Watch the full video:
👉 Drill Charging Station

If your cordless tools are scattered across the shop, this project is a game changer. With dedicated slots for drills, shelves for accessories, and space for chargers, it creates a centralized hub for your most-used tools.

It’s built entirely from plywood using simple joinery, but the impact on organization is huge. And yes, you might end up with extra slots…which is a great excuse to buy more tools.

Quick Shop Cabinets, Built for Your Space

Watch the full video:
👉 Quick Easy Shop Cabinets

Custom shop cabinets are where things really start to click. In this case, the biggest challenge was a sloped floor. The solution? Build a level platform first, then build the cabinets on top of it.

This approach simplifies everything and avoids complicated cabinet adjustments. From there, it’s all about customization, drawers, doors, pullouts, whatever your workflow demands. And while hardware costs can add up, the efficiency gains are worth it.

Double Your Drawer Storage, A Simple Hack

Watch the full video:
👉 Double Drawer Storage

This is one of those “why didn’t I do this sooner” projects. By adding a sliding upper tray inside an existing drawer, you effectively double your usable storage space.

It’s perfect for shallow tools, layout gear, pencils, and small accessories. And it requires minimal modification to your existing drawer. Simple idea, huge payoff.

Fancy Tool Holders, Because Why Not?

Watch the full video:
👉 Fancy Walnut Tool Holders

Shop projects don’t always have to be purely utilitarian. These walnut tool holders bring a little style into the shop while still being incredibly functional. From chisel racks to scraper holders, each piece is designed around the tool it holds.

That’s really the key takeaway here, let the tool dictate the design. Also, magnets. Always a good idea.

Space-Saving Plywood Cart, Smarter Material Storage

Watch the full video:
👉  Plywood Cart

Sheet goods storage can get out of hand fast. This cart solves that by creating a pivoting, wall-mounted system that keeps plywood accessible without taking up a ton of space.

Mounted on hinges with casters for support, it swings out when needed and tucks away when it’s not. It’s efficient, compact, and surprisingly easy to use, even when fully loaded.

Build a Shop That Works for You

Every shop is different. Different tools, different spaces, different priorities. But the common thread through all of these projects is intentionality. Each one solves a real problem. Each one makes the shop a little more enjoyable to work in.

And that’s really the goal.

Because when your shop works better, you work better. So if something here sparked an idea, run with it. Build it. Modify it. Make it your own.

Your future self will thank you.

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Friday, March 6, 2026

Build a Curved Spa-Style Towel Rack with Bent Lamination

Woodcraft – Find your local store!

Don’t Miss the Pre-Order Bonus Offer! – Demystifying Builtins 

What is Bent Lamination?

Bent lamination is exactly what it sounds like. Instead of bending a thick board, you:

  1. Cut the wood into thin strips

  2. Apply glue to each strip

  3. Stack them together

  4. Clamp the stack around a curved form

Once the glue dries, the laminated stack holds the curved shape permanently. The result is strong, stable, and surprisingly elegant.

Designing the Bending Form

Everything starts with the form. Whatever shape you build into the form will ultimately define the final curve.

For this towel rack, I drew the curve directly onto sheet material and cut it out using typical shop tools. A CNC would make this quick work, but honestly this is an easy job with basic tools too.

The first cut piece becomes the template. I stacked several layers together to get the thickness needed for the form, then glued and nailed them together before flush trimming them to match the template perfectly.

Because the finished bent part is about ½″ thick, the mating half of the form needs a complementary curve offset by that amount. You could measure and draw that offset, but sometimes you get lucky, like when a washer happens to be the perfect size to trace the curve.

Bending the Lamination

With the form complete, the process is pretty straightforward:

• Cut thin strips of wood
• Apply glue to each strip
• Stack them together
• Clamp the stack tightly around the form

This pressure forces the strips to take on the curve of the form. After the glue cures, the laminated piece holds its shape permanently.

A Practical Bathroom Upgrade

The final result is a simple spa-inspired towel rack designed to hold multiple clean towels without making the bathroom feel cluttered. The gentle curves created by bent lamination give the piece a soft, modern look while keeping the construction strong and lightweight.

Bent lamination might sound intimidating, but once you try it, it quickly becomes one of the most versatile techniques in your woodworking toolkit.

One of the most satisfying things in woodworking is convincing wood to do something it doesn’t naturally want to do. Sometimes you coax it. Sometimes you force it. Either way, the results can be pretty amazing when you learn the art of bent lamination.

In this project I’m building a spa-style towel rack with bent lamination for our bathroom. It’s a great way to create smooth curves that would otherwise be difficult, or impossible, to achieve with solid wood.

Video Links

Stuff You Need

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Thursday, February 26, 2026

Try a Woodworking Jam Session

When I was in 10th grade, I went to my friend Joe’s house. Joe was a pretty cool dude. Good looking, played the drums, effortlessly confident. He took me upstairs to his bedroom where his drum kit lived and started playing along to music blasting through the speakers of his boom box. Remember those?

Most people would call it an assault on the eardrums. I was mesmerized.

Suddenly I wasn’t in Joe’s bedroom anymore. I was on a stage. Tommy Lee was in front of me, Vince Neil was belting out Girls, Girls, Girls, and somehow I belonged there. If you don’t like Mötley Crüe, get your own fantasy!

That moment stuck with me. It was a turning point. I realized I didn’t just want to watch music happen. I wanted to be part of it.

Making It Work

Luckily, I had musicians in the family. My step-dad was in a country music band and I had a few uncles that had extra equipment laying around. Before long, an old drum set that had been collecting dust in an attic made its way into my basement. It was incomplete, mismatched, and missing hardware.

No tom mounts? No problem.

Using some of my Jersey ingenuity, I threw a ladder over a couple of garbage cans and dropped the toms between the rungs. A little rope, some wire, questionable engineering decisions, and boom, a mostly operational drum kit. I wish I had a picture of it. It was ridiculous. But it worked. I started teaching myself how to play.

Looking back, I’m amazed my mom allowed it. Acoustic drums in a basement are not subtle. And we lived in a small house in Trenton, NJ with no insulation between the basement and main floor with neighbors in close proximity. Sound just went right through ceiling and walls. But Mom always said she liked hearing it because it meant I was home and safe. As a parent now, I understand that in a way I couldn’t back then.

The Magic of a Jam Session

Not long after, I found a few friends at school and we started playing together. We weren’t good. We never would be. But that wasn’t the point.

If you’ve never played an instrument, here’s something you might not realize: there’s a huge difference between playing music you’ve memorized (or read) and creating something together in real time.

A jam session usually starts small. A guitarist plays a few chords. The bass player finds a groove underneath it. The drummer listens for the pulse and locks it in. Everyone is playing their own part, but they’re also constantly listening, adjusting, reacting.

It’s creative tension and cooperation happening simultaneously. When it clicks, it’s electric. You’re interpreting someone else’s intention in real time. You’re offering your own ideas without overpowering the whole. You’re building something none of you would have created alone.

That feeling is hard to describe. But when you experience it, you chase it.

The Woodworking Version

Years later, I realized I’ve been chasing that same feeling in the shop. I don’t think we talk enough about collaboration in woodworking. A lot of designers operate solo. And that makes sense. Designing is personal. It’s vulnerable. It’s easy to want full ownership of the idea. But that’s rarely my approach.

I consider myself an average designer. Most of what I create is derivative in some way, influenced by the thousands of pieces I’ve studied and the countless woodworkers I’ve learned from over the years. So why would I pretend my ideas spring from a vacuum? If anything, I want input.

Not from just anyone, of course. I’m selective. I trust experience. I value thoughtful critique over unsolicited opinion. And I care deeply about aesthetic alignment. But when I find the right collaborator, magic happens.

My SketchUp Jam Partner

One of those collaborators has been Brian Benham. For years, Brian helped bring Wood Whisperer designs to life. He created plans, built SketchUp models, and contributed to the design credit on many Guild projects. If you’ve taken a Guild course, you’ve seen his fingerprints. Brian even has several courses in the Guild including one on designing in Sketchup.

Here’s how it usually works. I send Brian everything I have, measurements, constraints, angles, reference photos, and my very imperfect SketchUp model. I’m competent enough in SketchUp to get things 50 to 60 percent there. An approximation, but not refined.

Then we hop on Zoom. Brian opens SketchUp and shares his screen. And this is where it feels exactly like a jam session.

Collaborative Zoom Call

I’ll say, “What if we soften that curve?” He draws it instantly.
“What if that leg tapers a little more aggressively?” Done.
“Can we see what it looks like with a different angle?” On the screen in seconds.

But he’s not just drafting my ideas. He’s reacting. Suggesting. Improving.

“Have you considered lowering the rail?”
“That proportion feels heavy.”
“What if we echoed that angle here?”

Back and forth. No ego. No defensiveness. Just exploration.

I’ve done this with Brian 20 or 30 times over the years. Just recently, we did a quick consult on a table I’m building for my buddy Jason. The concept wasn’t fully formed, but after an hour of jamming, it was clear enough to move confidently into prototypes and shop work.

That’s the payoff. Before a single board is cut, the design is stronger.

Why This Matters

Collaboration does a few powerful things:

  • It confirms good instincts
  • It exposes weak ones
  • It prevents expensive mistakes
  • It accelerates refinement
  • It pushes you beyond your default thinking

Most importantly, it reminds you that woodworking doesn’t have to be a solitary pursuit.

We romanticize the lone craftsman. But historically, workshops were collaborative spaces. Apprentices, masters, peers, all working, observing, critiquing. The modern version might just be Zoom and SketchUp (or your software of choice).

Try Your Own Jam Session

I don’t know what kind of access you have to other woodworkers. Maybe it’s a friend at the local woodworking club. Maybe it’s someone in the Wood Whisperer Guild. Maybe it’s me and you’ve hired me for a consultation.

But if you ever get the chance to “jam” on a design together, take it. Share your rough sketch. Share your half-baked idea. Get on a call. Let someone else poke at it. With the right person, it’s exhilarating. Two minds exploring what-ifs. Throwing out ideas. Refining proportions. Building something neither of you would have created alone.

Maybe someday I’ll reach a point where I don’t want outside input. Maybe I’ll be so confident that another opinion would only muddy the water. But I doubt it. Because for me, woodworking isn’t just about building furniture. It’s about making something better than my last project and constantly trying to fill gaps in my woodworking education. Other people with unique perspectives and backgrounds are a great cheat code for achieving that goal.

And that’s music to my ears!

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Friday, February 20, 2026

Dried glue on your clamps? Do this! (Plus 4 More Shop Questions)

Home Shop vs Commercial Space, What Are the Real Tradeoffs?

One of the biggest transitions a woodworker can make is moving from a home shop to a commercial space. I’ve worked in both, and the “right” choice depends heavily on your stage of life and business.

When my kids were little, having a shop at home was invaluable. I could work during naps, pop in after bedtime, and stay close to family. That flexibility is hard to beat.

As they got older, though, the shop became more of a distraction. I started craving separation between work and home life. Moving into a commercial space gave me clearer boundaries and a more professional environment for clients and guests.

But there are tradeoffs:

  • A basement shop has no rent, no commute, and bundled utilities.

  • A commercial space means fixed monthly expenses and additional insurance.

  • Security becomes a real consideration.

  • DIY projects at home become more complicated when your tools aren’t nearby.

On the flip side, a commercial shop allows for growth, better workflow, and room for additional help. For me, it was the right move, but it’s not a universal answer.

How to Make Kapla-Style Blocks from Scrap Wood

Kapla-style planks follow a precise 15:3:1 ratio. If you’re making your own from leftover lumber, accuracy matters. Here’s the general order of operations I recommend:

  1. Mill to thickness first
    Start with a flat, jointed board and plane it down to your target thickness. Sneak up on the final dimension using calipers. A planer will get you close, and a smoothing plane can dial it in perfectly.

  2. Rip into strips
    Use the bandsaw to cut slightly oversized strips. Then plane them down to final thickness just like you did with the full board.

  3. Cut to length with a stop block
    Use a miter saw with a stop block for repeatable accuracy. If you need micro adjustments, nudge the stop block incrementally until you hit your exact measurement.

Batch your work. Mill all boards first, then rip all strips, then crosscut all pieces. This keeps everything consistent. If you’ve ever made edge banding or thin slats, the process is very similar.

Are Table Saw Cuts Really “Glue Ready”?

Here’s the important distinction: Glue ready and finish ready are not the same thing.

Most power tools in my shop produce surfaces that are glue ready, meaning flat and clean enough for a strong bond. But that doesn’t mean they’re ready for finish.

  • A bandsaw surface often needs additional work before it’s even glue ready.

  • A jointer surface is usually glue ready, but may show subtle cutterhead striping under finish.

  • A planer can leave a very clean surface, but I still prefer light sanding, scraping, or planing before applying finish.

  • A table saw cut is typically glue ready, assuming a sharp blade and proper setup, but faint blade lines are almost always present.

Those small lines might not look like much, but once finish goes on, they become much more noticeable. Finish highlights imperfections, it doesn’t hide them. So my general rule is simple: If it comes off a power tool, it’s probably glue ready. It’s rarely finish ready. A few extra minutes of post-processing can make a big difference in the final result.

The Best Way to Remove Dried Glue from Clamps

Let’s be honest, prevention is ideal. Wax your clamp bars. Lay down paper or tape during glue-ups. In theory, that’s great advice. In practice, most of us don’t bother. Fortunately, most dried glue pops off easily with a putty knife. For more stubborn buildup, there’s a simple solution you probably already have in your kitchen: vinegar.

You have two options:

  • Wrap the clamp bar in a vinegar-soaked rag and let it sit.

  • Create a PVC pipe “bath” and soak the bar directly.

After soaking, the glue softens enough to scrape off easily. One warning: vinegar can dull the finish on shiny clamp bars. If aesthetics matter to you, keep that in mind. Simple, inexpensive, effective.

Do Acoustic Panels Actually Reduce Shop Noise?

This is where things get misunderstood. Acoustic panels do not soundproof a room. They won’t stop noise from escaping your shop. What they do is reduce reflections inside the space. By absorbing mid and high frequency sounds, they prevent harsh reverberation and make the room feel calmer and more controlled. Your recordings will sound dramatically better. If you’re building your own panels:

  • Use a quality absorber like 2-inch Rockwool.

  • Wrap it in acoustically transparent fabric.

  • Mount panels with an air gap roughly equal to the panel thickness.

  • Consider staggering them to reduce reflected sound paths.

If you want a full walkthrough, I’ve got a detailed video showing how I built mine.

Want Your Question Featured?

If you’d like your question answered in a future Ask TWW episode, join us in the YouTube membership area or on Patreon. I answer every question submitted, and occasionally feature a few in the show.

Thanks to all our supporting members for helping us keep this thing going.

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Friday, January 30, 2026

This Simple Upgrade Makes Parallel Clamps Way Better

Parallel clamps are one of the most commonly used clamping tools in a woodworking shop. They’re versatile, strong, and ideal for panels, casework, and glue-ups of all sizes. In spite of how much I rely on them, they aren’t perfect.

The Problems

Parallel clamps feature hard plastic faces. While durable, that material creates two common problems that nearly every woodworker has experienced. First, the hard jaws can dent the workpiece when excessive pressure is applied, especially on softer woods or already-machined surfaces. Second, the smooth plastic offers limited grip, which can allow the clamp to shift during glue-up, requiring extra adjustments and attention.

The Solution

To fix both of these problems, we can add a softer, slightly compressible pad to the clamp faces. This reduces the chance of denting and allows the clamp to hold more securely with less force. The added grip also helps prevent pieces from sliding out of alignment as clamping pressure increases.

The material I’m using for this is rubberized cork sold by my buddy Andy at In-Kleind.com.

  1. Cut the material to shape. I made a template using this DXF file. You can also purchase a template from us if you like. Both are available in our store!
  2. Scrape any glue off the clamp head and give it a light sanding with 120-150 grit paper.
  3. Clean the surface using a solvent like denatured alcohol, lacquer thinner or acetone.
  4. Apply contact cement (https://amzn.to/4rl6gCq) to both the clamp head and the clamp pad. Allow to dry 15-20 minutes.
  5. Carefully press the clamp pad onto the face of the clamp. Keep the clamp under pressure for 24 hrs.

A Time Saver: True Grip Clamp Pads

If you want to save yourself a bunch of time, consider purchasing True Grip Clamp Pads.

In the end, the takeaway is simple. Parallel clamps are already excellent tools, but with a small modification to the jaw surface, they become easier to use, more forgiving, and more effective. If you want to improve your parallel clamps and get better results from the ones already in your shop, this step-by-step approach shows exactly why the upgrade works and how it improves everyday woodworking tasks.

The Wood Whisperer is sponsored by Woodcraft!

Woodcraft

Looking for more information on parallel clamps? Check out these videos and articles:

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Friday, January 16, 2026

Small Tweaks, Big Results | Shop Layout

Looking to grab some of that sweet Woodworker Fuel Coffee? Get it while you can! 

As a kid, I loved rearranging my bedroom. It wasn’t about buying new furniture or adding more stuff, it was about seeing how small changes could completely change how the room felt and how I used it. That same instinct has followed me into the shop, especially when it comes to shop layout.

Over the years, I’ve learned that shop efficiency rarely comes from major overhauls. More often, it comes from stepping back and asking one simple question: does this shop layout actually reflect how I work?

The Problem With “Good Enough” Layouts

Most shops evolve organically. You get a new tool, you find a place where it fits, and you move on. Over time, that approach leads to friction you may not even notice anymore, extra steps, awkward material handling, and work that feels harder than it should.

Nothing in my shop was “wrong” on its own. But when I looked at the space as a system instead of a collection of tools, it became clear that the shop layout and overall flow could be better.

Designing Around Workflow, Not Tools

One of the biggest mindset shifts is realizing that tools shouldn’t dictate layout, process should. A good shop layout is built around how material moves, not just where machines happen to fit.

I looked at how material actually travels through my shop, from rough stock to milling, from machining to assembly, and finally to finishing. Once you map that out, inefficiencies become obvious. Machines that made sense individually didn’t always make sense together.

By adjusting locations slightly, not dramatically, I was able to reduce unnecessary walking, improve material flow, and create clearer work zones without gaining a single square foot. These small refinements made the shop layout work with me instead of against me.

Small Changes That Add Up

What surprised me most was how minor the changes were. Moving a tool a few feet. Reorienting another. Clearing visual clutter from high-traffic areas. None of it was flashy, but the cumulative effect was immediate.

The shop feels calmer. Work feels more intentional. I have so much space for activities, and I spend less time navigating the space and more time actually building. That’s the power of a thoughtful shop layout.

Efficiency Is About Thinking, Not Space

A bigger shop doesn’t automatically mean a better shop. What matters is how well your shop layout supports your way of working.

If there’s one takeaway here, it’s this: you don’t need a full rebuild to see meaningful improvement. Thoughtful, incremental changes, guided by workflow, can produce outsized results.

Sometimes the biggest gains come from the smallest moves.

Relevant Links

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