This video was sponsored by Osmo!
As part of our recent kitchen renovation, we had several areas of flooring that required new material. As a result, the entire kitchen floor was sanded with the intention of staining to match the old adjoining floor. Fortunately (and unfortunately), the natural-colored floors made the space so bright and inviting that we knew there was no way we could go back to a dark stain.
But what about the rest of the floor?! You can’t really start and stop in the middle of a floor if you’re using traditional floor finishes as you’re likely to have very noticeable lines. Not to mention, there was no room left in the budget to increase the scope of the flooring project. That’s when I decided to attempt finishing the floor myself, using a finish that can easily blend into the remaining floor in the future: Osmo PolyX Oil.
Preparation
The floors were sanded by the pros to remove the old finish. The floor was then sanded through to grits stopping at 120. The floors were then vacuumed thoroughly to remove any surface dust. Any baseboards or trim materials were masked with blue tape.
Application
Coat 1
The first coat was applied using a brush around the perimeter and a roller for the main part of the floor. I worked in 5×5 sections, spreading the finish as thin as I reasonably could. Unlike painting a wall with a roller, you really want to use decent pressure on the roller to make the finish go as far as possible. Just be careful not to apply so much pressure that you break the roller or handle.
Wait 24 hrs.
Coat 2
The second coat was applied in a similar fashion, just using different tools. I decided to use the non-abrasive hand pad around the perimeter as I felt it did a better job of allowing me to work a small amount of finish into the surface. The roller was then used just to get some finish on the floor and then the FloorXcenter powered buffer comes in to finish the job. The buffer does an amazing job of spreading the finish while also working it into the pores of the wood. I essentially work one area thoroughly, occasionally pushing into an unfinished area to see if there’s anymore finish left on the pad. Once it starting looking pretty dry I could move onto the next section.
Coat 3
On some wood species, it might be necessary to apply a third coat. It really depends on what you see after the second coat. If the surface looks even and consistent, the third coat can be skipped. My floor only required two coats.
The finish takes a few weeks to cure completely but can be walked on with socks the next day. I gave it two days before moving our table back in and I waited a few weeks before putting down our area rug and floor mats.
Maintenance
The floor will be cleaned regularly with Osmo Wash and Care. Maybe once a year I’ll clean the floor with the buffer and their Liquid Wax Cleaner. And then every couple of years I’ll likely hit the main traffic areas with a fresh coat of Polyx Oil.
Five Things You Should Know
It’s important to know what this finish is, and what it isn’t. So here are five things I think you should know.
- It’s not a typical floor finish, at least by US standards.
- It’s a matt finish, if you use Osmo PolyX Oil (3031 – Matte). More sheen can be had with Osmo Polyx Oil (3043 – Satin)
- It’s a repairable finish.
- It’s not a “set it and forget it” finish. Maintenance is part of the deal.
- It can be a little slippery when wearing socks, but will tone down with time.
Products I Used
- 3M 6500 Respirator
- Organic Vapor Cartridges
- Osmo PolyX Oil (3031 – Matte)
- Osmo Polyx Oil (3043 – Satin)
- Osmo Large Roller Set
- Osmo Small Roller and Brush Set
- Osmo Liquid Wax Cleaner
- Osmo FloorXcenter Buffer
Amazon links are affiliate links.
The post Solving Your Floor Refinishing Dilemma: Osmo PolyX Oil Hardwood Floor Application appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.
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