It takes only a few minutes, even with dadoes and such. You can still clamp it in the vise if you want/need to. Strops work best in a side-swipe fashion and not well front to back or pulling towards you standing in front of the bench. I have always made strop making simple by using…
Read the full post Strop Making on Paul Sellers' Blog.
00:00:31 – Video starts
00:01:25 – It’s The Woodworker Morning Show
00:03:00 – Thanks to our new Patreon subscribers https://ift.tt/2gRui6g
00:05:09 – Mail time! 00:08:25 – WorkbenchCon update
00:10:00 – Guild beginner project update
00:13:30 – What should I be looking for to move to the next grit while sanding?
00:16:47 – Thanks for the knives, Michael!
00:17:12 – Nesting table disc showcase https://ift.tt/2PxSEo4
00:20:13 – Is there any update for the guild project for SketchUp?
00:21:10 – What kind of project can I build with a 16 bf of cherry? https://ift.tt/2T6aSiK
00:22:30 – Would black pipes stain lumber? https://ift.tt/2P2xZYT
00:23:30 – How can I mill a 4/4 board all the way down to 1/4 inch without cupping?
00:25:45 – Is there a concern with sag with vertical lumber storage?
00:27:53 – How thin of material can I use for the blanket chest? https://ift.tt/2wckejS
00:29:43 – Any tips on working with the Merle Multi-Corner Clamp? https://amzn.to/3afqgz2
00:32:05 – Should I treat birch differently than other hardwoods when finishing?
00:33:20 – Can you recommend some good middle of the road hand tools?
00:37:10 – How can I fix some doors that are coming in at an angle when closed?
00:38:45 – Did you follow up with Blue Spruce about not holding an edge?
00:43:50 – What’s your joinery preference when building drawers?
00:46:02 – Can you talk a bit more about your finishing book? https://ift.tt/2wckeQU
00:48:00 – Why did you stop numbering episodes?
00:51:35 – Where do you go for book recommendations or reviews? https://ift.tt/2wZ9s0Z
00:53:00 – How do you decide on which size domino to use?
00:54:45 – Would you make an inset drawer panel and rails with a bit set or on the table saw?
00:56:20 – What kind of leveling feet did you use on the miter saw station build? https://ift.tt/2S3yy4x
00:57:30 – What are the pros and cons of a granite table saw top?
00:58:35 – Guild project winner! Congratulations!
If you like what we do and you want to see more of it, please consider helping us out by becoming a Patron. We truly appreciate your support! https://ift.tt/2gRui6g Looking for the products and tools Marc uses and recommends? You can find them at our Amazon stores:
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George sent me to Jack’s bench at the opposite end of the shop. His bench was more isolated from ours because the work he did in laying out needed more thought processing than the making did. You didn’t barge in on Jack, you quietly walked into his space and you stood there until he eventually…
Read the full post Woodworking Patterns on Paul Sellers' Blog.
I love my tools and I spend a great deal of my life in my shop. So when it comes to tool organization, I like to put a little extra time into building racks and holders that are custom-designed for functionality and beauty. To some it may seem silly to use a wood like Walnut for these things but consider that I have a lot of small walnut scraps that serve no other purpose. So why not use them to organize and beautify my shop space. Feel free to use any wood species you have access to.
Between the video and the images below you should be able to make custom holders and racks for your tools. The reason I didn’t include official plans for these is because unless you have my exact tool collection, the numbers won’t mean much. So get your measurements from the tools themselves.
The glue I used for all of these racks is Titebond Quick & Thick. The thick consistency and fast dry time makes is perfect for small projects like these.
In-Drawer Chisel Rack
If you are married to a set of chisels, this is a great way to store them securely in a drawer. Ironically, I ended up returning these chisels soon after this video was made due to a manufacturing flaw. So I had to re-make my insert reusing some of the parts from the first version. Pro Tip: put the racks in with double stick tape instead of glue. If you ever have to make a modification you’ll thank me.
Spokeshave Rack
This rack does a nice job of holding not only spokeshaves but also my cabinet scrapers. The slight angle of the sides serves no functional purpose but makes the rack look more interesting than a big boring rectangle.
Router Plane Cradle
I was inspired by a holder I saw from Little City Workshop and decided to make my own version. The cradle holes the Veritas Router Plane while the rack at the bottom holds the cutters and fence.
Card Scraper Holder
The simplest holder in this set, the card scraper holder features bandsaw-cut slots at an angle in a rectangular chunk of wood.
The post Unnecessarily Fancy Custom Walnut Tool Holders for Chisels, Spokeshaves, Router Plane, and Scrapers appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.
Some things can seem contentious but mostly they are not meant to be so. At least that is here on my blog. Highlighting an issue that’s causing a problem is not necessarily anything more than pointing out a need to change. It’s not an opportunity to jump on someone or something. At least that’s what…
Read the full post Resistance to Change on Paul Sellers' Blog.
Not really, but it’s just a reference face and we generally need something to shoot for. What is funny is that those advocating this thing called dead flatness are the ones selling all the gear and the sooner the support gear wears out the sooner you are back for the next batch of abrasive paper,…
Read the full post Does Dead flatness Matter on Paul Sellers' Blog.
My week was more relaxed in many ways, more than usual. I cleaned up and put up after a hard month since Christmas which I really enjoyed because I love order. Wood got stacked, unusable offcuts sacked and delivered to friends and neighbours for supplementing their winter fuel. The garage workshop I work in and…
Read the full post Today Closes the Week on Paul Sellers' Blog.
My recent post about simply changing four studs in a saw prompted an exaggerated comment who totally missed the point: “Paul,Seeing the hoops you had to jump through makes me glad I spend the extra on a blah, blah, blah saw.“ As I said, he nudged the truth to justify his privileged position to spend…
Read the full post Why Suggest Economy Tools? on Paul Sellers' Blog.
…things to consider It’s strange, really, when you think about it. Whenever you start any kind of retrofit, replacement of components, and especially something fitting into wood, you suddenly see that all things are not quite created equal. A half-inch becomes a little less and a little more. 12mm becomes 11.41 and the drill bit…
Read the full post Replacing Screws and Caps… on Paul Sellers' Blog.
It seems that every time I do a Shop Tour (here’s the 2019 version), I immediately make changes to the shop that make the tour somewhat outdated. After adding a new ductless mini-split to the shop, I had an opportunity to rearrange my lumber storage. Instead of an extensive horizontal storage system, I opted for a more practical and inexpensive vertical lumber rack.
Both vertical and horizontal racks have their advantages and disadvantages. Vertical racks make it easier to get to the material and are generally considered safer since you’ll never be on a ladder wrestling down an 8′ board. But vertical racks take up valuable floor space and if you’re in a very small shop, that floor space may be at a premium. In that case, you’re probably better off with a horizontal rack such as this one. With the lumber up on the wall, there’s still room to put tools or other things below the rack. For me personally, the convenience of a vertical rack makes it the better choice.
With the wood on a small platform, there’s no direct contact between the concrete floor and the wood so moisture shouldn’t be an issue. I generally wouldn’t recommend a rack where the wood is in direct contact with a concrete slab. As for warping, the boards are nearly vertical so they aren’t inclined to warp over time. If warping is a concern, simply rotate the stock once in a while.
The post Inexpensive Vertical Lumber Rack appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.
I have thoroughly tested the Spear & Jackson handsaws over several years, recommended them as an economical alternative to higher cost makes and those offered by premium makers. They might not look as nice but that they are every bit as good and even better as far as functionality goes than saws that sell for…
Read the full post Reshape Your S & J on Paul Sellers' Blog.
Sometimes, often, I see something emerge from what would almost become scrapped wood normally fit only for the fire. When I say emerge I am not talking Loch Ness monster rising from water shrouded in mist, just something that, well, surprises me. I crosscut my scraps and give a bag full of wood to friends…
Read the full post In the Present on Paul Sellers' Blog.
Today I worked to declutter what is the area I’m setting aside for teaching autists and support workers, teachers and so on. Currently, it’s as much my research area as my apprentice’s workshop but it will be nice to have everything set up and clearly designated. I’ve set up the area where a cluster of…
Read the full post Cluster Workbench Area on Paul Sellers' Blog.
The post Belly Button Jelly appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.
It was a special moment, an offcut of ash 6″ wide and 1/2″ thick and before I knew it the mirror was recessed perfectly and the shape came so naturally from a flat-bottomed spokeshave, a little rasp work and then some sanding. This was my therapy after a weeklong workout making and so I closed…
Read the full post A Machine-free Hour on Paul Sellers' Blog.
LED shop lighting is a big topic of discussion these days, but that wasn’t always the case. When I selected the lighting for the Dream Shop, T8 fluorescent lights were the obvious choice. LED technology existed but was still cost prohibitive. Even two years after the build I considered retrofitting the space with LED bulbs and once again I couldn’t justify the cost. But in 2017 (five years after the initial Dream Shop build), it’s a whole different story! I’m now in a new space in Colorado and I have the opportunity to install completely new fixtures and these days it seems like LED shop lighting is really the way to go.
We’re working exclusively with American Green Lights who designed and supplied our lighting solution. The fixtures are PerformaLUX SL Series in both single strip 24 W models and 5-strip 60 W models. These units can save 50-60% compared to traditional fluorescent lights, have a lifetime of 120,000 hours, and feature a CRI of 92-95 (for color accuracy).
For my installation, the situation was pretty much ideal. I have an attic above my garage that gives full access for wiring. There was an existing light circuit already in place so all we needed to do was tap into that circuit and expand the line to the various LED shop lighting fixtures. It was still a lot of labor and took two guys all day with an extra two guys helping for a few hours in the afternoon. But it was well worth it for the finished result.
Below is a special supplemental article written by my friend Vic Hubbard, an energy consultant. He has some thoughts on LED lighting fixtures and options that you might be interested in.
I was listening to the recent discussion on lighting for the workshop on Woodtalk. While I am not what I would call an expert, I hope that I know enough to help you make some good lighting choices. With the rapid advancements in LED technology, the lighting article I wrote for The Wood Whisperer published in June, 2013 needs a facelift. The majority of the information, however, is still applicable.
Inside of the energy efficiency field, which is my day job, we knew LED was going to be a disruptive technology. Most of us have been surprised at how quickly that has happened. When the Illuminating Engineer’s Society of North America (IESNA) put forward the recommendations for new and aggressive efficacy targets for lighting that phased out the average T12, the 100 watt, and then the 60 watt incandescent, soon to be followed by the 40 watt incandescent, the LED market started to take off. Since then it has been making huge strides in both technologies associated with control of that light and efficacy, or how many lumens per watt are created.
You can now buy a wide variety of LED lamps and luminaires for LED shop lighting. There are many lamps for the home, like candelabra lighting, PAR (flood lamps), and standard A19 Edison lamps (the shapes we’re all used to). Fortunately for consumers, light manufacturers continue to use the form-factors that work with the fixtures we’ve all grown up with and have become accustomed to in our homes, work environments, and other public spaces. Lamps for reading, canned lights, etc., all have maintained the same screw in base and, with few exceptions, the same familiar shape. Lots of innovation and the icing on the cake is that prices have also dropped dramatically.
Another lamp that has been very successful in the marketplace is the tubular LED (TLED). You can find both T8 TLEDs and T5 TLEDs, the former being the most common. Not even five years ago, the payback for retrofitting a T8 fixture from fluorescent to TLEDs was beyond 35 years. The paybacks with incentives for energy efficiency are now usually between two and five years for businesses with normal 8 to 5 operation hours. Also, the quality of the TLEDs are very good.
If your existing fixtures are near end of life, you’re lighting a new space, or just want to jump into LED there are a few things to consider. How much light do you need? This will vary based the operations you perform in the space. You’ll want more lumens, or foot candles in areas where you do more precise or finer work and less for the general purpose areas. What color of light (Kelvin temperature) do you want? Where this was discussed in the last article, I will add that the most common color I see go into production areas is 5000 Kelvin. As I know many are getting into filming in addition to woodworking, I asked Christopher Landy, a fellow woodworker who also works in the film industry as a lighting designer, his opinion. “I shoot everything 4200, sometimes 4600 – 4800. That gives me a dynamic range of colors. If I shoot 5600, the engineers have to take the blue out and if I shoot 3200 they have to take the red out. So, when I shoot in the middle I am able to get a wider range of color.” However for his home shop he uses warm lighting, as he likes the “romantic glow” warm light gives to his basement shop.
If you’re retrofitting existing fixtures, you have several options. You can go the way of the TLEDs, a retrofit kit or all new LED fixture. If you go the way of TLEDs a google search will yield a very large selection. If you want to make sure any tubular lamp is the quality listed on the specification sheet, be sure to check the Design Lights Consortium Qualified Products List (DLC QPL). If you already have a product in mind, simply enter the model number and the manufacturer in the QPL. If you don’t have an idea which product to buy, you can use this list to find a make and model. There are basically four types of TLEDs to consider. “Plug and play” (UL type A) will run off most existing T8 and some T12 ballasts and you simply replace the lamps. Ballast compatibility must be verified and running through a ballast typically will draw at least a couple more watts per lamp than the watts on the specification sheet. Ballast-bypass/line voltage/direct wire linear LED (UL type B) requires the ballast to be removed and the line voltage wired directly to the socket, or tombstones. This may also require you to replace the sockets with either shunted or non-shunted tombstones, depending on the manufacturer’s specs. LED driver retrofit kit (UL type C), while the least common is still an option. Finally, hybrid/dual technology linear LED (UL type A&B), which can be “plug and play” or direct line voltage. For most lay persons, I would suggest “plug and play” for a retrofit. It is the most simple of all the options. However, if you’re comfortable doing electrical work or will have a qualified electrician doing the work, all the options are worth looking into. If you are happy with the amount of light you have, a simple one to one replacement will do.
If you’re doing new construction or need more lighting in an existing space the first thing to do is figure out what type of LED you may want to use, get the specification sheet and complete this simple calculator which will give a good ball park for the number of fixtures and the cost for running them. You’ll need to know the square footage of the shop. If the shop is broken up into more than one room, calculate your needs for each room separately. For desired foot candles, IES recommends 20 – 50 foot candles for your basic shop procedures like milling and 50 – 100 foot candles for finer operations such as hand work, sanding, and finishing. I have an average of 45 foot candles in my shop and use task lighting at my work bench and a raking light for inspecting how well I’ve sanded and finished a piece. When you get to “Ballast Factor”, you will use 1.0 if you’re installing an LED fixture. If you’re using a T8 fixture and “plug and play” TLEDs, you’ll need to google the ballast to find the ballast factor. I would stick with the 0.60 for the Coefficient of Utilization if you’re using a standard T8 troffer with T8 ballasts and TLEDs. If you’re looking at LED fixtures and have white walls, and ceiling, check the specification sheet, but you’ll likely be OK using 0.80.
Other tools you may find useful. This calculation will inform you of payback, whether you’re doing a retrofit or deciding between fluorescent or LED for new construction.
***Savings per month = ((Existing System Wattage – LED System Wattage)*hours per month)/1000=kWh, kWh*Electricity Rate. Divide the cost by this number and you’ll know your simple payback period.***
I use an app in Google Play called Light Companion for determining foot candles. It is able to be calibrated, but was only off by 2 foot candles from my professional unit.
No matter which direction you go, I encourage you to purchase two to four fixtures from somewhere with a liberal return policy and hang them in place. That will let you know if you like the color, if you’re getting enough light and if you are getting shadows because the beam angle isn’t wide enough. In the case of shadows, pick a fixture or lamp with a wider beam angle or less wattage and lumen output and install more of them. Again, the calculator will be a great place to start. Good luck and have fun in the shop.
The post Upgrade to LED Shop Lighting appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.
I have made some rough-and-ready pieces in my time. That’s not a confession, it’s what we do in life to make life work. I suppose my rough-and-ready might be the equivalent to something from a big-box store not unlike IKEA, Dunelm and many more, but without the pressed fibreboard hollow-core egg-crate cardboard veneered with the…
Read the full post Progress What? on Paul Sellers' Blog.
One of things I looked forward to the most about moving to Denver was having the opportunity to take my kids sledding. We usually use those lightweight foam sleds and they work great, but I thought it would be fun to make an wooden sled for them to enjoy. While I doubt this sled will break any speed records, it works quite well and is also great for pulling the kids around the neighborhood when the streets are covered in ice and snow.
This project began with the steam bending of rails, which you can learn more about in this video. Once you have your rails, you can jump back to this video to see the remainder of the construction.
To help protect the wood, I used Total Boat Gleam 2.0.
We’d like to thank our sponsors Powermatic, Titebond, and Duluth Trading Company.
The post Kids Pull Sled appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.
…I have to rein myself in, but it is uplifting the making of things — anything at all. Taking something quite raw, perhaps even waste, and converting it into a project built to last for a lifetime, is a part of what we do. Crafting of every kind is usually the harvesting of raw and…
Read the full post Imagine… on Paul Sellers' Blog.
With all the flooding taking place throughout our island, the transport systems are under even greater pressure in the country. Despite warnings to stay put, people traveled and then, of course, there are those who were already en route to somewhere who were just caught up in it. Many modes of transport have stopped running…
Read the full post Home Town on Paul Sellers' Blog.
Thirty years ago I knew or heard of only a handful of handtoolists. That’s not to say that they weren’t there in the woodwork, more that they had little if any real voice. Books written that came out inevitably touted the routed. By that I mean the heavily promoted, new age of the router had…
Read the full post I Think We’re Progressing on Paul Sellers' Blog.
I have mentioned it before but then the sole sales outlet Lowes USA did what Lowes does best when it has a really good product, it stopped selling it. Anyway, I found a US maker making it again, Montana brand, and I thought you might like a set. I did a video on using it…
Read the full post Plug Cutter Par Excellence on Paul Sellers' Blog.
00:00:31 – Video starts
00:02:47 – It’s The Woodworker Morning Show
00:03:00 – Thanks to our new patreon subscribers
00:05:05 – Which OSMO product(s) should I use on a walnut island in the kitchen?
00:09:55 – Have you found a good free resource for learning sketchup?
00:12:08 – Did you sand and finish the wooden wall behind you in the shop?
00:13:40 – Can you laminate to get to the 8/4 thickness for the roubo top?
00:14:33 – What’s the best way to prevent wood movement?
00:16:18 – What’s the best way to joint a board wider than my jointer?
00:18:02 – Which Woodpecker tool do you gravitate towards the most?
00:21:47 – Any update on the EZ Edge?
00:23:10 – Have you used your new CNC yet?
00:24:15 – What kind of CNC did you get?
00:25:15 – Is Nicole more likely to use a CNC or a scrollsaw?
00:26:15 – Have you considered doing a collaboration with Mike Farrington?
00:28:00 – Any suggestions on materials for a router table top?
00:30:00 – Any suggestions for stabilizing a mobile cart when ripping?
00:31:45 – What are your initial impressions of the PM-V11 blades?
00:32:35 – Adventures in steam bending – New TWW Video out
00:33:25 – How much room do you leave for wood expansion in a frame and panel?
00:35:35 – Does the miter saw cabinet have any issues with moisture?
00:36:25 – What’s your stance on using vaneer?
00:37:05 – Any information on the new guild instructor?
00:37:37 – Update on guild pipeline
00:40:00 – After coming back to a project, there are dark patches on the wood. How can I get rid of them?
00:41:00 – Have the tracks for your tracksaws ever warped?
00:41:50 – Can the MFT replace a miter saw?
00:43:35 – Why did you change your miter saw brand?
00:45:28 – WoodTalk is back! (Three shows a month, not a week)
00:47:15 – Have you heard about the quality of the Vermont Woodworking School?
00:50:30 – Is Rockler doing referrals from listening to WoodTalk?
00:51:30 – Why does wood conditioner give an orange tone to the stain?
00:52:50 – Are there any Friday Live evening shows coming up?
00:53:59 – Guild project winner! Congratulations!
Friday Evening Show next week
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Woodworking Morning Show as an audio podcast
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There’s a certain irony surrounding wood bending. Normally, woodworkers do everything they can to mitigate wood movement and prevent boards from bending, cupping and twisting. But sometimes we want a curved project part that simply can’t or shouldn’t be cut from a larger piece. There are two popular methods for bending wood: bent lamination and steam bending. With bent lamination, we saw a board into thin strips and glue the strips back together on a bending form with glue between each layer. This process is fairly predictable and you can do it with any species of wood. I have a video on that process here: Bent Lamination
Steam bending is a very different beast. The process uses steam to transfer heat deep into the wood fibers, causing them to become more pliable for a period of time, long enough for us to clamp the workpiece to a bending form to grant it its new shape. A good analogy is curling hair. With moisture and heat, straight hair can be made curly and curly hair can be made straight. So it is with wood. But because every species is a little bit different, not all species take well to the bending process. Commonly-used species include Ash, Beech, Birch, Hickory, Red Oak, and White Oak. Furthermore, kiln dried wood is significantly more difficult to bend due to the hardening of the lignin imparted by kiln drying.
Since this process was completely new to me I decided to jump in head first, without doing a ton of research, and essentially setting myself up for some failures. But those failures helped me solidify my knowledge on the topic with actual experience and not just taking someone else’s word for it. By the end of this experience, I had read numerous articles, watched tons of videos, and read two books on the topic including one I highly recommend: Wood Bending Made Easy by Lon Schleining. While I’m nowhere near an experienced steam-bender at this point, I do feel I have a much better understanding of what it takes to have repeatable successful steam bends. I also learned that I really prefer the predictability of bent lamination. But having both techniques as arrows in my quiver means I simply have more options when executing future projects.
Here’s a summary of my personal conclusions. Keep in mind that all of these things warrant more testing and research:
The post Adventures in Steam Bending appeared first on The Wood Whisperer.
I passed a place with an abandoned frame pallet, mainly spruce. Almost all of the pieces were quite clear and clean; nine 10′ 2″ long pieces, 3/4″ thick by 4″ wide. I stood it on end, slipped cardboard between the car and the pallet, tilted the pallet and slid it easily onto my roof bars.…
Read the full post eBay’s OK! on Paul Sellers' Blog.
...but then there’s my gut! Rarely would anyone use hearing as an excuse for planing wood out of square, but I am! Yes, too, I use my sight, even feeling the angle with my fingers. Taste and smell don’t come into it. Remember my being the first to alert you to the reality that you…
Read the full post Hearing Keeps Me Square… on Paul Sellers' Blog.
Now that I have caught everyone up on the essentiality of sharpness, that non-sharpness is never an option, and that sharpening needs to become the rhythmic heartbeat pulsing into and punctuating the work in hand, I want us all to focus on keeping well. The sanity of joinery rests in this one reality: joinery is…
Read the full post What’s Next? on Paul Sellers' Blog.
And don’t be scared! If you’ve avoided sharpening because of uncertainty then it is likely that sharpening has a fearful uncertainty for you. Working with students, friends I came to know, such like that, I learned to listen. In most cases it was the fear of failure that held them back. Mostly it surrounded self-doubt…
Read the full post Sharpen Up! on Paul Sellers' Blog.
That is the question… A decade ago a student came to my class and in twenty minutes learned how to sharpen edge tools. “That’s was so amazing!” He said. I spent a week on a woodworking course for sharpening and you just taught us more in twenty minutes than I learned in the whole week.…
Read the full post To Exercise or Not? on Paul Sellers' Blog.