Monday, June 28, 2021

Quilt Rack & Japanese End Table – Pre-Order


The TWW Guild is very excited to announce two new projects that you can pre-order right now for 20% OFF: the Bent Lamination Quilt Rack with Marc Spagnuolo and the Japanese End Table with Brian Benham.

If you purchase both projects, you can save an additional 10%!

Brian’s Japanese End Table starts on July 9th and Marc’s Bent Lamination Quilt Rack starts on July 16th. So don’t delay!

And if you are new to our online woodworking school, you can always try it out with one(or all) of our three FREE projects: Dining Table with Breadboard Ends, Dovetailed Step Stools, and Picture Frames. You’ll find that TWW Guild is more than just a set of plans. It is designed to help you take your woodworking to the next level and you can view all of the additional benefits here.

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Saturday, June 26, 2021

Thunderstruck! | TWW Live

Show Notes Coming Soon

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Friday, June 25, 2021

My Most Challenging Project in Years! | Veneered Pantry Cabinet

My mom has a fairly small condo with limited storage space, so she requested a standing vertical pantry cabinet to help provide more room for kitchen items and food. I honestly wasn’t super excited about the project since it was just a cabinet with some drawers and doors. To make things a little more exciting, I decided to raise the challenge level by including veneering, continuous grain, and a unique door and drawer configuration with rails only and no stiles. All told, this was my most challenging project in years.

By far the biggest challenge in this project was keeping the veneer organized. The panel veneer is continuous from top to bottom and each door and drawer is interrupted by a solid walnut rail. So I had to be very strategic about how the panels were glued up and how they were cut apart. Furthermore, because I didn’t want to see any edge-banding, I applied the edging BEFORE the veneer. This way the veneer grain runs all the way from side to side and gives the illusion of solid wood. I mentioned the solid rails already, but those too were cut from single boards to make sure their grain was also continuous.

Was it all worth it? I think so. I have never included this much continuous grain on a single project and frankly I’m surprised I didn’t screw anything up. So I got to exercise some woodworking and design muscles, my mom got a nice cabinet to store her stuff in, and you guys get a neat video showing the whole process. I’ll call this one a win-win-win. I hope you enjoy.

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Friday, June 18, 2021

Top 5 Hand Tools | TWW Live

Show notes coming soon.

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Can you guess what these are? | Mystery Tools

My assistant Jon has been working for me since last Fall and since then, he has come across a few tools and doodads in my shop that he didn’t recognize. I started to quiz him on what each thing does and thought it was funny (and informative) enough to capture in video. These are actually very useful tools but they are definitely niche products. Sadly, I often forget I even have them. Bad Marc!

Here are some links to the mystery tools:

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Sunday, June 13, 2021

Make Stains Look Better! | DIY Blotch Prevention Formula

Get your pre-order in for a Woodworker F.U.E.L Mug! 

What is Blotch?

If you stain your projects, it’s likely you’ve confronted a phenomenon known as blotch. This is when the stain absorbs unevenly resulting in a seemingly random arrangement of light and dark areas. In the examples below, you’ll see a pine board with nothing but dark stain on the left. The board on the right was first treated with my blotch prevention recipe. The untreated board is what we’d call “blotchy” as it has lots of contrasting light and dark areas. The treated board has much more consistent color with far fewer dark blotches. Pine is particularly bad when it comes to blotch and if you like the “rustic” look, then you might not need to worry about taking measures to prevent blotch. But for those who prefer a more even stain appearance, you might consider trying my DIY blotch prevention formula.

The Formula

The formula I like to use is actually a combination of two classic blotch remedies: glue size and diluted finish. I consider this recipe a starting point that you can use to develop your own formula for the stain and wood species you’re working with.

3 TBSP Wood Glue + 3 TBSP Water-Based Finish + Water up to 1 Quart

Application

After mixing well, apply to the surface liberally and let it soak in and dry. Once completely dry, sand lightly with 220 grit to knock down any roughness. Proceed with the staining process. Since the mixture is glue, finish and water, it can keep for a very long time. Dump it into an empty quart can and throw it on the shelf until the next time you need it. Be sure to mix well before use.

Making Adjustments

After testing the formula on a piece of scrap, there are two possible outcomes that may require adjustment.

  • Too much blotch? Add a little more glue to your mixture and try again.
  • Blotch is gone but the color isn’t intense enough? Dilute the mixture with water and try again.

Ultimately, this process entails a decent amount of trial and error and keep in mind that with some woods and some stains, you’re just not going to achieve perfection. At some point we need to let wood be wood, flaws and all.

Remember there are lots of methods and products on the market to reduce blotch and in some cases you might find they perform better than this DIY formula. But in my experience, this stuff works as well if not better than anything else and I can make it as-needed out of things I already have in my shop.

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Friday, June 11, 2021

Fickle Miter Slaw

Show notes coming soon.

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Friday, June 4, 2021

Tape Measures – TWW Live

Show notes coming soon

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Mirka Deros VS Festool ETS EC | Which Sander Should You Buy?

Today I’m going to try to help you make a decision between the Festool ETS EC150 and the Mirka Deros. The Mirka costs over $125 more and the Festool is already a top of the line sander. So is the Mirka worth it? Let’s see if we can answer that question.

Disclaimer – I’ve been using a Festool sander for over 10 years now, which will result in some unavoidable bias. I did my best to remove that bias by using the Mirka exclusively for three months before doing this review. I also purchased both of these sanders with my own money and have no personal skin in the game. Finally, everything contained within this video is my opinion.

Specifications

The specific sanders I used for this comparison are both 6″ diameter and both feature a 5mm orbit pattern.

 
Festool ETS EC150 Mirka 650X CV
Price $525 $650
Osciallation Options 3 & 5 mm 2 & 5 mm
RPM 4k-10k 5k-10k
Power Switch Standard Button Master Power Button with Paddle
Variable Speed Dial Buttons and Paddle
Weight 2.74 lbs 2.29 lbs
Height 4 7/16″ 3 13/16″
Hose Compatibility Works with Festool Works with Festool
Plug Style Proprietary Twist Lock Proprietary Snap-in
Pad Hole Pattern Ridiculous Ridiculous
Warranty 3 Yr/No Wear & Tear 3 Yr Incl. Wear & Tear

Opinionated Analysis

Ergonomics/Conveniences 

The Mirka is a form factor some of you might recognize. This type of paddle sander is something often found in pneumatic tools. Anyone coming to woodworking from the autobody world will likely prefer this sander over the Festool. The Mirka has a lower center of gravity and tends to feel like a more natural extension of the hand. The Festool is ergonomic too but I’d say the Mirka has a slight advantage here. Between the ergonomics and the slightly lighter weight, the Mirka would be an obvious choice for anyone working on vertical surfaces or ceilings. That kind of work is few and far between for me as most sanding I do is flat and horizontal. So that feature isn’t quite as important to me as it might be to someone else.

Now you might think this makes the Mirka the undisputed champ with regard to ergonomics but there’s a catch: the paddle. I’m honestly not a fan. In order for the sander to run, the paddle has to be depressed the whole time. Let off and the sander stops. The fact that the paddle acts like a variable speed control of sorts is totally lost on me. It’s like a gas paddle that is either at 0 or 60 mph since it’s really difficult to keep the paddle halfway pressed down. And for the work I do, on the fly speed adjustments are unnecessary. I much prefer a dedicated on/off button that stays on until I hit it again. And I nearly always run my sanders at full speed anyway. A lot of folks have no problem keeping their hand on the paddle but for me, during long sanding sessions, I like to change up my grip to help reduce fatigue and cramping and that’s a lot harder to do when you have to keep your hand on a paddle.

This paddle also creates a little bit of a liability as you can, and will, likely place the sander upside down at some point to change the paper. If the power is still on, the sander will spin and give you a little surprise at the least and a sandpaper cut at the worst. You have to be sure to turn off the master power before flipping the sander over. You may also set the sander down and accidentally wind up pressing the paddle only to watch the sander go for a little walk.

Speaking of changing paper, the pad on the Mirka spins freely. While not a huge deal, this does make it slightly more frustrating to change the paper. The Festool doesn’t spin as easily so it makes it a lot easier to line up the goofy-ass hole patterns.

Performance

Both sanders do a great job and I could not discern a difference in the resulting surface quality between these two. I specifically used the same sandpaper I’ve been using for years so that if there were any differences I’d be able to spot them. You might notice that my paper has the old standard hole pattern and doesn’t even make use of the goofy hole patterns both of these sanders use. Even still, both of them have absolutely adequate dust collection.

How about sanding speed? One of the things I hear a lot about Mirka converts is that the Mirka removes stock noticeably faster. Unfortunately, I didn’t see any evidence of that at all. I even ran a couple of tests just to see some side by sides and both sanders took an equal number of passes to remove the pencil lines I placed on the surface. And after using it for 3 months I can’t say I noticed any practical difference in sanding speed and efficiency. And just as a second data point, I talked with my assistant Jon about this and he agrees that the Mirka is not saving us any time.

Now one interesting thing I noticed while sanding a cedar bench top. The Western Red Cedar is really soft wood but it does have dense knot areas periodically. For whatever reason, the Mirka tended to kick and whip a little more when it made contact with those dense areas. The Festool just seemed to be more stable with fewer jerks and kicks. This was the only time I observed that sort of behavior, as with any other sanding job the Mirka was just as stable as the Festool.

Both sanders are low vibration and both are a huge step up from home store brands, but between the two the amount of vibration feels pretty much the same.

Accessories

Both companies offer a variety of pad options, a dust extractor, and sandpaper. Mirka has the advantage in sandpaper just by the shear volume of options. That said, good luck making sense of them. The Mirka sandpaper page reminds me of the Cheesecake Factory menu. I can’t figure out what I want so I just get the cheesecake. This is further exacerbated by goofy non-descriptive names like Abralon, Jepuflex, and Mirlon….which all sound like wizards from Lord of the Rings. Festool has a smaller/simpler selection of abrasives but they also feature goofy names like, Granat and Rubin.

One area Festool holds a huge advantage is the number of other tools they produce. There are obvious advantages to having a bunch of tools from the same brand and if you go Mirka you’re pretty much limited to sanders and polishers. If you go Festool you have access to things like saws, routers, planers, drills and of course that Domino thing. So that’s something to keep in mind depending on what you want to do with future purchases. Now if you already have a Festool vac and maybe even a boom arm like I have here, you can pretty easily include the Mirka sander in that setup just by running the Mirka cord alongside the Festool. Not that big of a deal.

Who Should Buy the Mirka Deros? 

  • People who have a history with pneumatic sanders. If you’re used to that paddle style sander, you’ll be right at home with the Deros.
  • People who tend to do a lot of vertical or overhead work. Though I’m not a fan of the paddle, the lighter weight will be a benefit in the long run.
  • Gadget geeks: Mirka has an app. Not sure how useful the info is but apparently you can track speed data as well as vibration exposure. I have a watch that reminds me to breathe…..so why not.
  • People who have an anger boner against Festool. Let’s face it. Some people would love to spend $125 more just to stick it to those Festool-lovers.

Who Should Buy the Festool ETS EC? 

  • People who like the idea of a system approach and plan to add more tools to their arsenal. Festool definitely gives you a more cohesive experience with various tool offerings.
  • People who do mostly shop-based flat sanding. If you’re not going vertical, the lighter weight of the Mirka is somewhat irrelevant. And while the Mirka has the lower center of gravity, remember I did experience that jumping when sanding a board that had a lot of knots in it, and the Festool seemed to navigate those areas with more grace. Perhaps the weight plays a role in that.
  • People who want to save $125.

Conclusion

I think the real sticking point here is the $125 difference (in the US). My goal was to determine if the Mirka is better than the Festool and if it is better, is it $125 better? Without a doubt I have to say “No.” These sanders are much more alike than they are different and the differences come down to really nit-picky pros and cons. So if one of the pros or cons I mentioned previously is a real concern for you, that might help you make a decision. But for most woodworkers, I have to say they’d have trouble justifying the additional expense of the Mirka. Festool is already considered one of the best (and most expensive) sanders on the market. So if the Mirka comes in $125 MORE than the Festool, I need to see a good compelling reason for it and I don’t.

Now if you’ve used both sanders and walked away with a different impression, let us know about it in the comments. I’m just one person with one opinion and there are a lot of variables at play here. My personal experience doesn’t invalidate yours in any way, but if you disagree with me you’re wrong (wink wink).

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